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Australia

Eat Pierogi Make Love, Brunswick East

Very lively. Buttons are open. There is a joyful buzz in the air and dill in the breeze. You’re in the youthful quarters of Brunswick East, a homage to Eastern European home cooking. Carbohydrates are flowing freely; everyone is having a great time (at least the staff).

The food is somehow both rustic and rebellious. Fasolka szparagowa is a yellow and green bean dish worth talking about thanks to its buttery crumbs, smoky cow’s milk cheese and charred lemon. Mięso pierogi is the best beef and vegetable stew you’ve ever had—in dumpling form—topped with a salty-sweet mixture of bacon and onion.

There’s vodka, raki and slivovitz for days; enriched with fruit, accompanied by classic cocktails or lined up on flights. Sage green tiles surround the bar, while pop-art posters add a colorful wink to the walls. Polished Polish with purpose and personality.

Good to know: The set menu ($59) and endless pierogi Mondays ($39) are a steal.

Good Food reviews are booked anonymously and independently paid. A restaurant cannot pay for a review or inclusion on a list. Good Food Guide.

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