Mary Argyropoulos is the next big thing
For five long years, artist Jordan Gogos has been Australian fashion’s next big thing. Budding designer Mary Argyropoulos’ graduation collection arrived just in time for Gogos to relinquish the unofficial honor.
“When I started, I had an aesthetic, but I wasn’t good,” says Gogos. “Mary is being too harsh.”
“From the moment I met Mary, I immediately knew I would work for her one day.”
Gogos’s insights go beyond Argyropoulos’s 14-piece collection for the University of Technology Sydney; Here, Greek fabrics that pay homage to the Fates of mythology and 80s influences are combined with Indian weaving techniques to create pieces on the crafty side of couture with heavy doses of cool designs.
“I worked in Jordan’s studio for four years, and what he taught me was how important craft is,” says Argyropoulos, 23.
“We see a jacket and think it’s beautiful, but we’ve forgotten the process and story of making it. Jordan isn’t afraid of textiles. He’ll just go into the studio, tear things apart, and use materials to create.”
Argyropoulos put Gogos’ great lessons to work for the final piece of last month’s homecoming show; a powerful postmodern dress made from strips of fabric left over from her other creations.
“A lot of my family and friends came and helped me cut those hand strips; it was a fun day sitting in the backyard drinking Greek coffee,” Argyropoulos says.
The Greek influences continued, with the budding designer’s beloved Yiayia helping crochet pieces and hemming bulky fabrics.
“Often when students draw inspiration from family and cultural histories, they can be more subdued or indecisive, as if they are still working on something,” says Todd Robinson, senior lecturer in the fashion and textiles program at UTS. “Mary’s work, by contrast, feels like a confident, contemporary proposition, an expression of who she is as a modern Australian woman of Greek heritage.”
These Greek connections also played a more practical role, thanks to Yiayia’s bread knife.
“I had to use his knife to carve the shoulder pads from pieces of foam found in Reverse Trash. It took four days to make. You can’t just buy them in this size,” says Argyropoulos.
Having completed his studies, the designer now faces a future in a turbulent industry but is looking forward to further developing his skills abroad. On her dream board is an internship at Marni and Maison Margiela.
“I used to wash bathrooms in Margiela. I’m not afraid to start from the bottom,” he says.
Gogos already sees Argyropoulos on his way to the top.
“In an age of quiet luxury, what’s wrong with having something tough like that from Mary?”
This could mean that Argyropoulos will start his own brand sooner rather than later.
“I worked with Jordan at Australian Fashion Week for four years, so the novelty has worn off, but seeing my name there might feel different,” he says.
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