The tiny UK city that bucked Britain’s high street slump | UK | News

Plagued by devastating store closures and glaring empty units, many of Britain’s historic high streets have sadly faced years of harrowing national decline. Economic chaos and the unstoppable rise of online shopping have left many towns and markets on the brink; Even retail giants such as Woolworths, Debenhams and WHSmith are not immune from collapse.

The crisis has left many scratching their heads, desperately wondering how they can make once-strong towns and city centers meaningful and interesting places in the age of modern technology. The answer may not lie in major metropolises such as London, Birmingham and Manchester, but in one of Britain’s smallest cities, right at the heart of the Fens.

Ely, a small city of just over 20,000 people buried in rural East Anglia, once faced many of the same problems as similarly sized areas up and down the country.

When I worked there 15 years ago, there were almost no decent shops and very few places to buy a fresh sandwich or enjoy coffee and cake.

Despite a nearly 1,000-year-old cathedral and its undisputed place in history as home to Oliver Cromwell, one of the most important figures of the English Civil War, its future appeared far from certain.

Fast forward to 2026 and Ely has become an astonishing national success story in defying the seemingly inexorable trend of high street decline.

While its larger neighbor Peterborough has struggled with the closures of John Lewis and Marks and Spencer, Ely has prospered with many new store openings and a vibrant local economy.

The city is now full of national chains like Mountain Warehouse, White Stuff and Gail’s Bakery, as well as independent stores, many of which have opened in the last five years.

There are almost no vacant units in sight; It contrasts sharply with its other neighbour, Cambridge; where the famous Grafton Center quickly turned into an eerie ghost town after the stores were transferred.

Population growth undoubtedly helped; The wider East Cambridgeshire area has grown by 4,000 people in a decade as people flock to the picturesque countryside by direct train from London.

But when you talk to both the newest independent retailers and the newest generation of residents, you’ll see one key reason for its success emerge again and again.

Allison Clover, who runs Wild Clover Flower Company in Fore Hill, says: “I opened in the second year of Covid – it was a bit of a challenge.

“Everyone was shopping online and there was anxiety about going out.”

The 48-year-old says “all independent retailers support each other” and “work together to encourage foot traffic”, particularly by encouraging guests to turn their visits into day trips.

He now receives a number of repeat customs, particularly from nearby Cambridge University colleges, and says: “We feel it’s getting better.”

But if there’s one thing that seems to have made a huge difference above all else, it’s free parking.

The city is unusual in charging free at most car parks, including car parks on Fore Hill, Ship Lane and Barton Road.

Residents can leave their vehicles for hours just a few minutes’ walk from the beautiful city. Even those that are paid or have restrictions usually offer at least a few hours for free.

Compare this to Cambridge, where a five-hour stay in the Lion Yard car park will set you back an eye-watering £26.50, and you can see why many people are tempted to spend a day in the Fens.

“It definitely makes the city attractive,” Clover says. “The fact that they introduced parking fees would have a huge impact on independents and all businesses.”

Jess Gingell, co-owner of Ely Fudge Company, also in Fore Hill, says: “If I had to pop into the shops I know I’d go here as there’s free parking.

“It’s something people talk about a lot, especially at Christmas. There are a lot of people coming from King’s Lynn and Peterborough.”

If free parking draws shoppers to Ely, its striking, traditional architecture and quaint British shops ensure people fall in love with it and stay.

Gingell describes it as having a “laid-back vibe” that attracts many tourists.

“A lot of people are coming,” says the 36-year-old actor. “There’s a lot coming from Cambridge; they want a slightly more relaxed day.”

Louise Mortimer, 61, whose mother and co-owner of the Ely Fudge Company, says: “We’ve always loved Ely. We think it’s safe. You’ve got the river and the cathedral. The local traders are all very nice and friendly to each other.”

Lewis Phillips says he chose Ely “because he wanted a slow life and didn’t want to rush things.”

The 38-year-old, who lives with his family in nearby Witchford, said he had never considered leaving his previous life in London but now says he will “never go back”.

“I love it,” he says. “I moved here from London six years ago because the kids came along.

“We chose Ely because it’s such a child-friendly place. The schools are great. The community is great. I’d never go back to London.

“From the standpoint of living here, because it’s a small city, I spend more time here getting to know the people in the stores. They all end up knowing you.

“You feel like you’re getting a nice, personal service. I find it very comforting. It’s friendly, safe and friendly.”

Amy Ellis of nearby Soham agrees. “I come here to drink coffee and go to the market,” says the 36-year-old actor. “Compared to other places, everyone is really friendly.

“It’s nice to have small independent stores. They have a few franchises. They sell a lot and it’s always busy.”

Marilyn Carter, 76, owner of Three Cups Jewellery, describes Ely as “busy” and “beautiful”, while Martin Black says the town is “probably better off than most”.

The 62-year-old, who moved from Hackney, east London, 23 years ago, said: “It took me a while to appreciate Ely and the Fens. I missed London. But I grew to love Ely.”

“It’s a nice place to live. It’s nice, they haven’t ruined it. It’s got all the nice parts. It’s all beautifully preserved. We’re lucky to have a cathedral that brings tourists.”

“We used to have three butchers, now we only have one. There are lots of clothes shops. There are good enough independent coffee shops. There are markets here.

“It’s a mix. If you go to other places like Soham or Littleport, it’s not as good.”

Rex Dowlman also believes Ely “has not suffered as much as other towns”.

“It’s a unique place with so many small and large shops,” the 77-year-old resident said.

“It is a very touristic place because of the cathedral and the beach. It has all kinds of opportunities for young and old. It also has a market and attracts the attention of many people.

“They always hold a lot of events. They have a lot to offer.”

Despite his undoubted success, Ely cannot rest on his laurels.

Sophie Elliott opened Sophie’s Afternoon Teas and Cakes in Three Cups Walk four years ago, delivering sweet treats to people’s homes during Covid.

“I love the city,” he says. “Rents are much more reasonable here than in Cambridge. It’s more affordable. You attract people who travel here to see the cathedral. It’s a nice little place, to be honest.”

He says his fellow independent retailers “look out for each other and support each other.” His business has been a success, with “a nice collection of regular customers,” but it is not without its hurdles.

“It can be challenging at times,” he says. “Costs have increased and I need to think about how I can keep the business growing.”

He describes the arrival of Gail’s Bakery as “pretty frustrating” for independent cafes like his.

“Ely isn’t big enough to have a lot of competition,” he says. “We have to think about how we can stand out from the rest. We always try to keep it fresh.”

High streets across Britain are likely to continue to struggle with the cost of living crisis, a stagnant economy, more people working from home and the increasing use of delivery services such as Amazon.

Some are completely reinventing themselves in the hope of reversing years of national decline. In the case of Cambridge’s Grafton Centre, for example, this means a complete overhaul with more work and leisure space but ultimately fewer shops.

Yet it is perhaps Ely that offers the best lessons for the success of cities large and small; keep parking free, make sure rents are affordable and let the independents truly thrive.

It’s a slightly less controversial revolution than the one his famous son Cromwell led in the 1600s, but it could still transform Britain for years to come.