google.com, pub-8701563775261122, DIRECT, f08c47fec0942fa0
UK

Anna Wintour was Vogue. Now she’s gone, can the magazine stay relevant?

Ellie Violet BramleyStyle writer

Ron Galella collection through Getty Images Anna WintourRon Galella collection through Getty Images

In May 1989, Dame Anna Wintour did something that would be the distinctive feature of US Vogue’s Editor -in -Chief: she put a pop star on the cover.

Just a year before the period of Masthead’s summit of Masthead, Dame Anna made a name for him as an editor who instinctively understands Zeitgeist. He was the first person to put a model on the jeans on Vogue’s front.

Anna: Amy Odell, the author of The Biography, says, “If it is angry to make jeans for November 1988, I think it is even Edgier to make Madonna,” he says.

For Marian Kwei, who contributed to a stylist and Vogue, this movement speaks to “make Dame Anna’s Vogue” relevant to our time, make it contemporary, make it accessible “.

“Previously, they were women who could buy couture, who was interested in what Vogue said, or he says. “But Dame Anna noticed the need to reach children listening to Madonna.”

Almost 40 years later, Dame Anna Anna Manolo Blahnik is preparing to hang, although she will not be a kind of chief editor, she will remain as a global editorial director. 39 -year -old Chloe Malle, who stepped as the President of the Editorial Content, will sit down.

Although some attribute the ongoing presence as a sign of reluctance to quit the total control, it can see it as a recognition of the unique place in the fashion industry, and if it completely goes, it will lose its population – some of the printed magazine – some of them.

Mark Peterson/Redux/Eyevine in Anna WinTour Vogue officeMark Peterson/Redux/Eyevine

In his office in Anna Wintour Vogue

He once directed the fashion magazines sector like Vogue. They just didn’t have to fight for attention until the high decree, which was just “stylish” and what wasn’t, it wasn’t.

Vogue is still seeing a good taste or a reflection of our time, whether you ever see, depends on whom you talk to.

Odell, “I think it is more relevant than what people want to accept honestly.” Says.

Anja Aronowsky Cronberg, the founder and editor -in -chief of Vestoj, the academic fashion broadcast, is less for Cronberg. “Vogue represented the world, an eye -catching and different, and the broad horizons I tried.”

But he stopped reading 25 years ago.

Today, printed magazines are increasingly fighting to survive in a crowded, fast-paced landscape-a monthly broadcast, a minute digital world loses too much relevance.

“There is no single magazine that Vogue may be relevant in the 80s,” Cronberg says Cronberg.

Tiktok and Instagram, such as “Today there are many other vehicles for culture,” he adds.

All this will affect Malle’s thought while undertaking the work of the editorial content president. Planning according to reported It focuses on the themes or cultural activities rather than months to reveal problems less frequently. He says he wants to lean on the idea of ​​printed vogue as something to be collected and fed.

David Turnley/Corbis/VCG is looking at Kadın Vogue magazine via Getty Images   David Turnley/Corbis/VCG Getty Images

One of the ways of Dame Anna to hold Vogue to talk to Vogue is to expand the people she invited to the cover.

Since the first release of Maddona, Dame Anna has placed the royal family, politicians, pop stars, writers and gymnasts on the cover.

“As Vogue’s editor -in -chief, Fashion and entertainment have been bridged, Od says Odell.

It wasn’t always well met. When Dame Anna put Kanye West and Kim Kardashian on the cover in 2014, Kwei says.

“Nobody really wanted to dress [her] Because he was a star of reality. “

Looking at the almost mythological position where Kardashians continue to occupy, the cover of Dame Anna’s ability to foresee the culture – drag him controversial.

However, Dame Anna continues to be the right person to be in the world and the magazine cannot withstand the increasing financial pressures.

Adidas Kim Kardashian, Anna WinTour and Kanye West Dimitrios Cambouris/Getty Images, New York Fashion Week in New York Fashion Week 2015 in New York Clarkson SQ in New York, Pose in Adidas Originals X Kanye West Yeezy Season 1 Fashion Show.  Dimitrios Cambouris/Getty Images for Adidas

It is a much more institutional world than once.

Jeff Bezos’s decision to emphasize his wife Lauren Sanchez now led to the accusations of the magazine. It was read by some about the celebrating and luxury rather than style. Interestingly, it was the goods that organized the story at the wedding of the power couple and sent to write.

Vanessa Friedman, New York Times’s chief fashion critic Specified in one last article “Although Elite Weddings are Vogue’s distinctive feature, they almost never made the lid, and Mrs. Sánchez Bezos apparently does not have neither famous nor modeling identity information.” The couple’s presence at the opening of Donald Trump also criticized some of them – and especially contributed to the reaction of the cover on social media.

Dame Anna, who supported the democratic candidates in the past, had been involved in Hillary Clinton, Michelle Obama, Jill Biden and Kamala Harris recently. Melania feels important whether Trump will invite to be on the cover, even if it enters the role of Malle, it is important to be the subject of too much debate and continues.

However, Vogue can withstand more than most of such criticisms because of its legendary history. As the fashion journalist Lauren Sherman, who broke the news of Malle’s appointment, told the BBC to the BBC: “The Vogue brand stands separately and is one of the most important fashion brands in the world.”

Eric Thayer/Reuters Vogue Editor Anna WinTour, New York Fashion Week, on September 7, 2007 J. Mendel Spring 2008 is talking on a mobile phone before the collection. Eric Thayer/Reuters

A large part of Vogue’s standing in the world hugged Bob and Dame Anna, the mysterious editor of Modan, with its unrecognizable unrecognizing.

He continued to have a certain level of relevance for the title as almost as a relevance level.

“Anna, despite all the various periods we have experienced, just as possible to be synonymous with culture, fashion and beauty,” he says.

This is criticized for being late to make Vogue more diverse than other parts of the industry.

“That main stream is the famous figure,” says Odell. “Another editor had a book and an iconic film about them? You know, it was played by Meryl Streep!”

For Cronberg, “a brand in itself at this point”.

So what’s next?

“We are about to see how much of Vogue’s relevance to Dame Anna,” Odell says.

Although Malle has inherited the prestige of the magazine, he says to Chloe and his team whether they can use them wisely to influence the way of moving culture, “he says.

Ellie Violet Bramley is a free writer and former Guardian fashion and lifestyle editor.

Related Articles

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *

Back to top button