Behind the crumbling walls of Bihar’s Balirajgarh Fort, a tale of monumental neglect
The ruins of Balirajgarh in Bihar’s Madhubani district echo with the lowing of cattle and the squeal of pigs. If this sounds odd for a centrally protected historic site, the unmistakable smell of human and animal excreta is enough to force visitors to retreat; Something the Archaeological Survey of India (ASI) wouldn’t be too proud of.
The gross negligence of the main department for cultural heritage conservation in India, which recently approved excavation at the site, has now become part of the popular belief in Balirajgarh.
But the new sanction has reignited hopes that the buried layers of Mithila’s early urban civilization will finally be explored in depth.
The approval given by ASI on February 26 is valid for one year and authorizes the agency’s Patna Circle to conduct excavations at the site, which is officially listed as ‘Ruins of Ancient Garh Fort’. The area, locally known as ‘Raja Bali Ka Garh’, was first spotted in 1884 by George Abraham Grierson, the then Madhubani Sub-District Magistrate.
The area, locally known as ‘Raja Bali Ka Garh’, was first spotted in 1884 by George Abraham Grierson, the then Madhubani Sub-District Magistrate. | Photo Credit: RV Moorthy
three digs
The site, spread over 122.31 acres located about 35 km from Madhubani district headquarters and about 260 km north of Patna, was first excavated in 1962-63. During the excavations carried out by the Bihar State Archeology Directorate in 1972-73, important historical, structural and cultural remains belonging to the Maurya, Sunga, Kushan, Gupta and Pala periods were unearthed. The last excavation was carried out by ASI in 2013-14, but was canceled in mid-2014 due to authorities citing “environmental constraints and high water level making further excavation difficult”.
Following the February 26 ASI approval, Rajya Sabha member Sanjay Kumar Jha, who is also the chairman of the Parliamentary Standing Committee on Transport, Tourism and Culture, said he would ensure that the excavation is taken to its “logical conclusion” this time.
“Balirajgarh has immense historical importance for Mithila and the country. The excavation should be scientific, systematic and comprehensive,” Mr. Jha said, adding that he had taken up the issue with the Union Ministry of Culture and senior ASI officials.
Over the years, the abandonment of new excavations has led to a tussle between the State government and the ASI. Chief Minister Nitish Kumar has criticized ASI many times for its negligent attitude towards Bihar.
Bihar Tourism, Arts, Culture and Youth Minister Arun Shankar Prasad, MLA from Khajauli constituency of Madhubani district, said, “The protected status of the site prevents the State government from carrying out development work here.” he said.
Presenting a gruesome picture of complete neglect, cattle and pigs are a common sight in the vast lands of Balirajgarh. The lonely pond beneath the protected area is filled with filth even as emaciated children and women bathe with their water buffalos. According to local people, the pond never dries up. Hindu They found village children playing cricket near a mound as preparations for the annual Chaiety Mela were underway. There are more than 20 such mounds under the protected area, and everything that has been previously excavated is filled with soil, weeds and grass. Ram Kumar Mandal, the sole caretaker of the historical site, said, “The fair has been held every year for a long time. Thousands of people visit it.”
The previously built border wall in the area was demolished and a new wall with iron bars placed on it emerged. Repeated attempts for comment by ASI (Patna Circle) Archaeologist-in-Charge Hari Om Sharan did not elicit any response.
“My only fear is that the money allocated for the excavation will not go in vain this time. Concrete results and findings should emerge this time,” said Phanikanta Mishra, former regional director of ASI (Eastern Region).
Previous attempts
Archaeological findings from previous excavations indicate a five-fold cultural sequence in the region, starting with the Northern Black Polished Ware phase (c. 700-200 BC) and continuing through the Sunga, Kushan, Gupta and Pala periods. This suggests continuous settlement from the early historical period to the early Middle Ages.
According to ASI Director General Yaduvir Singh Rawat, the chronology may be the same but every excavation has a chance to reveal new layers of the town’s cultural fabric. This time, it is recommended to dig nearly 20 trenches.
“If the study this time does not reach its logical end, it will be a complete waste of money and time of the government,” said Jaidev Mishra, retired professor of Archeology at Patna University.
Mr Jha hopes that this time the excavation will go beyond previous limitations and provide a clearer, deeper explanation of the ancient settlement still buried beneath Balirajgarh’s massive mounds.
It was published – 13 March 2026 01:01 IST
