Besha Rodell reviews new-look Italian restaurant
“The restaurant pivot is a tough thing.” Besha Rodell wonders whether the move to a more informal format would benefit Italian restaurant Cantina Moro.
Italian$$
Pivoting a restaurant is a difficult thing. There are many reasons for doing this: to refresh once the flush of initial excitement wears off; if a concept does not work for the venue or customer base; when the team is bored and ready for something new.
In the case of Alta Trattoria in Fitzroy, the reason was much simpler and more practical. Chef McKay Wilday, who had built a loyal following with his Piedmontese dishes, was moving on. Rather than trying to continue a theme that relies heavily on Wilday and his skills and passions, co-owners James Tait, Luke Drum and Carlo Grossi decided to rely on the skills and passions of their new chef, Matteo Tine.
After a brief closure in late August and early September, a new gold paint job, and a change in artwork, Alta Trattoria reemerged as Cantina Moro, with the restaurant’s focus on Sicily rather than Piedmont.
Other than these minor cosmetic tweaks, the look and feel of the restaurant hasn’t changed much. It’s a lovely little place, with two adjoining rooms, the front facing the street and the back built around a cozy bar. Wooden chairs and white tablecloths give the place a classic, polished yet warm feel, which is matched by the owners’ service. This place is a labor of love and it shows.
The Sicilian theme creates a menu that’s warmer, heartier and a little more homey than the one at Alta. The rabbit and olive pasta (a dish I will forever remember as one of the best in a city of quality pasta) is gone; Instead, there’s a robust ragu on pappardelle made with chunks of Italian sausage, plus pork ribs and jowl meat; This recipe was reportedly taken from Tine’s Sicilian grandmother. (That’s not the only dish Nonna has influenced this menu with; her hash browns also make an appearance.) Tine also has a delicate dexterity with pasta, as evidenced by her potato and ricotta ravioli crowned with thyme and capocollo.
The daily appetizer might include a pile of tender porchetta, some peppery prosciutto, vinegared anchovies, roasted red peppers, and a generous dollop of cheese—whatever catches the chef’s fancy that day.
Seafood is a strong point, especially the honey bug crudo, in which small crustaceans are cut in half, their fluffy raw meat encrusted with citrus fruit. Swordfish with agrodolce is a balanced, sweet, sour and meaty work.
The wonderful bluefin tuna pastrami and various scallop and chili tagliarinis occasionally use excessive amounts of salt. But the spices are often excellent too; I especially loved the slightly bitter fried endive dish with cannellini beans.
I wonder if this venue’s pivot should include a return towards a more informal format. I’m not sure how the owners should go about this—honestly, it’s probably easiest to just add “wine bar” to the marketing pitch—but I think this restaurant, in its newest form, is crying out for use as a casual neighborhood restaurant rather than a more formal date night spot.
This antipasti platter would be perfect as a light meal on the trail with a friend, accompanied by a few glasses from the excellent Italy-focused wine list; I’d love to come here for a few snacks at the bar or a plate of pasta without feeling the need to go through the entire menu.
Of course, restaurants are what we make of it, and if Cantina Moro is going to become a neighborhood staple, my guess is that people will start using it more spontaneously, in exactly the ways I described. I would love to see this room crowded, customers spilling out onto the street. A place that deserves a sunny energy to accompany its sunny and charming presentation.
Down
Atmosphere: Classic friendly trattoria
Dishes to use: Honey bug crudo ($11); antipasti misti ($38); Pesce alla griglia ($52)
Beverages: Fabulous wine list focusing on Italy, particularly Sicily and Piedmont, plus a great selection of seasonal cocktails
Cost: Approximately $180 for two people, excluding drinks
Good Food reviews are booked anonymously and independently paid. A restaurant cannot pay for a review or inclusion on a list. Good Food Guide.
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