Exploring the Rhine and Moselle by e-bike

One of the things that makes a river cruise so different from an ocean cruise is the ability to get close to land. It’s really close.

From the moment I boarded the Scenic Pearl in Basel for my romantic Rhine and Moselle cruise, life on the river plays out before me like a David Attenborough documentary: families picnicking, ducks and swans swimming, fishing enthusiasts preparing for the day with folding chairs and fishing rods, and of course the endlessly fascinating process of getting in and out of the locks. No need for binoculars here. Sometimes we are so close to land that I could almost reach out and touch it.

Of all the activities we experienced on our little ship, the sight that made me want to go ashore the most was the cyclists using the bike paths that line the riverbank.

From city commuters to families with baby trailers, serious cycling enthusiasts and Saturday afternoon travelers and holiday makers, watching them cycle by makes me itch to get out and try it myself.

Scenic Pearl may be a river cruise ship, but it’s equipped with equipment that passengers need to explore on two wheels. The ship has a fleet of e-bikes available to anyone who wants to use them. I plan to try these, but I’m torn between the excellent excursions offered in the first few days of our trip and the chance to explore on my own. Luckily, I don’t have to choose when we arrive in Cochem on the Moselle River. I’ve booked a guided bike tour along the river, a 248-kilometre journey usually completed in 10 stages, that will take me deep into wine country along Germany’s popular Moselle Cycle Path. This trip has more modest goals; Our guide Matthias plans to lead us on a pleasant 25-kilometer return journey from Cochem to the village of Beilstein, with many stops along the way.

Our route has almost no inclines and flat, smooth roads and electric bikes make this journey accessible for everyone. We often stop to rest and learn more about the country we are passing through; A 2,000-year-old wine region founded by the Celts is then turbocharged by troops sent over the Alps from Rome. “What did the Romans do for us?” Matthias asks with a grin, imitating a Monty Python joke, as he points to the hills where the grapes used to make some of Germany’s best wines are now grown.

We lift our heads to gaze at the vines that cover the dizzying hillsides at such steep angles that they are “the steepest in Europe”; These can only be harvested by hand. “This is not Napa Valley,” says Matthias, who is entertaining the American guests in the group. “Picking grapes and carrying them down the hillside is backbreaking work.”

With only a month left until the harvest, preparations have already begun, but first the traditional celebrations need to be organised. Summer wine festivals are on the calendar throughout the region. When we stop in the picturesque village of Ernst, where some buildings date from the 16th century, tents, tables and chairs are being set up for the annual celebration. The river ship docked in Bad Durkheim just the day before; The wine festival was well underway here, including the coronation of the wine queen. The town was full of wine and beer lovers. weinstube or the tavern groaning and merry with guests.

As you cycle along the river, almost every high point in the landscape is home to a castle. “There are more than 200 along the river, but most are ruins,” says Matthias. Cochem’s Reichsburg is an exception. In 1689, during the 30 Years’ War, French King Louis XIV. Destroyed by Louis’ troops, reconstruction of the city finally began in 1866. It is now the city’s biggest attraction.

Our furthest destination along the river and the halfway point of our journey is Beilstein. We park our bikes and walk towards the monastery at the top of the town to enjoy the view of the Moselle winding below us. known as Sleeping beauty For the many fairytale adaptations filmed here, a village in Germany is a microcosm of the region’s best – vineyards as far as the eye can see, history and beauty in spades, and the opportunity to drink some of the world’s best riesling right where it’s made.

Details

Fly
Qatar flies directly to and from the Australian capitals Zurich (with train connections to Basel) and Amsterdam. Return at $1557. To see katarairways.com

Visit
Cochem is located in the center of the Moselle Wine Route. Wander through the streets of the medieval town, walk up to the castle, or take the cable car up to Pinnerkreuz, which offers unobstructed views of the river and valley. To see visitmosel.de

To stay
Scenic’s Romantic Rhine and Moselle Tour is a 15-day river cruise between Basel, Switzerland, and Amsterdam, Netherlands (with selected departure point), exploring wineries, castles, and WWI and WWII landmarks. It includes visits to the battlefields of the World Wars at Ypres and Passchendaele. Prices start from $7995 per person (flights not included). To see scene.com.au

The author traveled as a guest of Scenic.