FARRAH STORR: Claudia Schiffer was once the face of Guess. Now, the brand has created the first AI model to appear in Vogue – and I fear it could be the death knell for the fashion industry

In the latest Guess fashion campaign, there is something frightening about the model. His smile and large cheekbones look like American super model Kate Upton. Hazel reminds me of the Dutch super model Doutzen Kroes.

A look at your body – long legs, an elbow chest, skin a biscotti color of the biscuit – and easily Brazilian super model gisele Bundchen.

But look a little closer and everything is not what it seems. A small, barely legitimate stamp warns us that it is not a real woman. Instead, it is a super model created by AI, a complete manufacturing of genetic make -up computer codes and automatic learning.

This is a US Fashion House, which is famous for releasing the careers of some of the world’s most famous models, for the first time-Claudia Schiffer, Gigi Hadid and Laetitia Casta, but used models produced by AI in several-reliefs. In addition, the Vogue Magazine, which contains the ad in the August issue, is believed to allow models created by the computer on their pages.

But it is not the first fashion brand using guessing AI. H&M and Mango have been trying AI models for a while, Marks & Spencer has virtual impressive like Mira, selling products and gathering big followers for years.

About ten years ago, artificial intelligence seemed something from a sci -fi film. Today, however, new, sophisticated computer learning is a different story in the news rooms of journalists, extras in movies and now they can replace models in photography.

As Elle Magazine’s former editor, it is easy to see the first charm of changing the models with AI, as the modeling work is always full.

First, it is never enough from a simple perspective of supply and demand, from the models you want for the ‘moment’ you want. High -fashioned tends as much as clothes by models. For a season fashion angular, Slavic -looking models, everyone will pursue the same girls. AI immediately solves this problem and allows anyone to form the model of their editorial dreams.

While organizing Cosmopolitan, we wanted to use models with desperate, more realistic body types from 2015 to 2019 (before moving to Elle). The problem is that very few agencies had 12 -size models. Instead, routine ‘curved’ models were sent routinely with small small bodies and larger chests.

In theory, AI would allow us to pay almost no fees. (We finally resorted to using ‘real’ women to fill the gap frequently, I believe there is still a better solution when I look back.)

Then, of course, there is inconsistency between the model you think you make reservations and the model you buy. In all the magazines I organized on my career – women’s health, cosmo and hand – it was not unusual for models to emerge with bad leather or hair, which was much shorter than expected, short to shoot with another magazine.

We have clearly seen models with unhealthy exercise addiction in Women’s Health; In Elle and Cosmo, we have seen many fragile young women who were so thin and scared that they did not feel ethical to make a reservation. (I was very lucky to work with great fashion directors who were not beyond concern with model agents.)

AI solves all this.

And then there is a cost. The fashion world is under amazing pressure to balance books at the moment, not to mention magazines. Reklam kampanyaları için moda çekimleri, yerleri ve tüm yaratıcı ekibi-fotoğrafçı, makyaj sanatçısı, saç stilistleri, asistanların bir falanksının yanı sıra ağır seyahat ve konaklama maliyetlerini de hesaba kattığınızda yüz binlerce liraya mal olabilir. Like magic, AI eliminates all this financial pain.

Finally, let’s not forget the protection problem, one of the biggest concerns of the modeling industry for years. Young beautiful women, money and power abundant, for decades, well -documented sexual abuse and ill -treatment cases where it does not have terrible consequences to throw.

Who can forget the terrible allegations that are said to have been sexually assaulted against the elite model management boss Gerald Marie? He rejected the allegations and the French prosecutors closed an investigation into allegations due to the statute of limitations.

One of the ads created for AI for the US Fashion House, which started the careers of the world’s most famous models

However, by changing the models, AI instantly solved some of the darker problems of the industry.

Very good so far – if it interacts with the fashion AI very in -depth and this cost is as cultural as it is.

Because fashion work, at least in my mind, is not just about selling aspiration and clothes. Fashion shapes culture. Get rid of the models and remove all the creative system behind it: makeup artists, photographers, stylists, assistants.

Overnight, you destroy an entire industry that is real cultural importance. Fashion ideas curls and fires the discussions. Thousands of young, creative man is an industry in which it bends. Something as simple as relying on artificial intelligence to sort your models, attracts the whole fashion industry to a potentially solving thread.

Moreover, a model brings much more to work.

In the 1990s, super models are as famous as how they look on the podium.

When you hired Cindy Crawford, you didn’t just buy Crawford’s face and body, but you also bought his All-American personality. You wanted the story of Cindy Crawford on your lips or famous 34-25-36 ‘Hayati’ statistics as much as you want.

Although ‘Mia Zelu’ produced by AI is a ‘digital storyteller and ai-eti’ in Instagram biography, it means that most of the algorithms will be presented with its image without any other context.

When you reserve Kate Moss, you were aligning with the rock ‘n’ roll that you brought out of the modeling world as well as the role she played in front of the camera. Therefore, storytelling is a part of the model experience – who they are and how they live. Something that AI can never compete successfully.

But perhaps the biggest problem with AI models is that what happens when a computer decides what is beautiful?

Because, whether we care about admitting or not, models sell aesthetic ideals. Growing Up, it Wasn’t My Parents Or Friends Who Had The Biggest Effect on Me. Fashion – Calvin Klein ads, Kate Moss, Supermodels, Claudia Schiffer ‘Guess Girl’ looked at me from a giant advertising panel.

But if the ‘Guess Girl’, which is now returning to you, is completely composed by AI, what kind of impossible beauty standard is determined for millions of young impression? (Interestingly, the law is not yet fully caught with artificial intelligence and the computer created by the computer is not yet compulsory.) Labeling models.)

An amazing example of this is the impressive Mia Zelu, which attracts attention and captures hearts (including a world -famous cricket player), although it was produced by AI in Wimbledon this year.

Bouncy blonde hair, big eyes and long, caramel limbs, 168,000 followers asking the questions around the tennis tournament as depicted around the exaggerated ‘girl’ next to the beauty of the girl ‘was difficult to be fascinated by: Which Wimbledon Match Your Fave? Although Zelu states that he has a ‘digital storyteller and ai-ecstasis’ in his Instagram biography, most people will never see it, because most of the Instagram’s algorithms will probably be presented with his image without any other context. And in this case, the context is really everything.

In 2016, I remember being told about a AI impressive and model called Lil Miquela, the creation of La ‘Storytelling’, which is currently disappearing. At that time I was organizing Cosmo and I laughed at first because it almost looked like a manga cartoon.

I told a colleague that no one would fall. And still lil, Prada, Adidas and Calvin Klein and others. However, the difference was that most people had the fact that Lil was produced by AI.

In fact, it was part of his charm. Moda has always loved the innovation, the world’s first digital super model ‘, the border cruel moment and Lil. I don’t think anyone I know poses a real threat to the future of fashion.

But models and impressive models like Mia Zelu and New Guess Girl? I wouldn’t have any idea, so the sophisticated AI has happened in the last decade.

And still, from Photoshopping magazines that artificial intelligence has been used liberally for decades – the skin texture and in some cases (which Britain GQ is accused of Kate Winslet, which is digitally changed).

Regularly, because of the excessive use of phone filters, I see peers whose faces are almost produced by AI. They have an incomprehensible skin, in short, Barbie dolls look too far away because they look at an average woman.

When you think of all this, AI does not seem to be a greater tension than what we do with our own image willingly.

But here is the biggest difference: filters and Photoshopping (this coincidence, forced to be clamped for years due to fashion industry, legislation and activism).

This means that everyone looks different because they look different. Photoshopping and filters do not completely destroy the skin color or body shape.

AI is different. That’s because of the way aı is trained. The underlying algorithms seek patterns; Considering that it works from historical tendencies based on data clusters, they often produce answers, behaviors or aesthetics that are the same in this case.

In the model of modeling, these trends have always been leaning towards thin, Caucasian women. At that time, it is not surprising that a model like the new Guess Girl resembles an amalgam of every super model from the last five years – Patti Hansen, Christie Brinkley, Candice Swanepoel and Kate Upton. Only AI works like this.

Whether skin color or body shape, it is destructive for a world that fights for a much wider representation in the modeling industry.

Get the body positivity movement, which is difficult to make Curve models a completely recognized part of the fashion scene. However, since they are very new, AI will not create a plus -sized model for you unless asked.

Conclusion: A mass that is allied of certain types of beauty.

There is no doubt that AI will come for all of us – writers, directors, store assistants, even workers. Modeling is just an early injured.

Moreover, creating a culture that everything feels the same – whether movies, models or books – it will mean that people will after all.

Nobody will watch the movies and nobody will take clothes – this is something that every fashion company should think right now.