Review: Italian precision and personality
In a dining landscape where restaurants often shout for attention, Piccolo Trattoria quietly lets the food, service and atmosphere shine.
The Rokeby Road façade is illuminated at night with stunning fairy lights that twinkle on the crisp white tablecloths, creating an inviting, homely vibe.
Originally opened in Nicholson Road, Shenton Park, Piccolo moved to Subiaco in October 2021 and has since become a local institution.
Only a food writer might look out the window and consider how a simple, no-frills venue could provide space for a conversation to properly hold a conversation—to truly listen, to truly digest—without being distracted by unfamiliar dish names or overly complex wine lists.
That’s the subtle advantage Piccolo brings to a business lunch or dinner: it allows ideas to breathe while the food and service set the rhythm.
Piccolo Trattoria is owned and managed by Carlo Collova, a long-time figure in Perth’s Italian food scene.
In 1994, aged just 22, Mr Collova opened his first restaurant, Rialto Ristorante e Caffè, next door to the Queens Hotel in Highgate.
Since then, he’s operated a number of neighborhood favorites, including Il Pasto and Hawthorn Mountain in Inglewood, Trattoria Ilaria in North Perth, and several smaller ventures.
His philosophy is simple: Don’t follow trends, let the product and service speak for itself.
There’s no performative minimalism, no overly designed menus, and no sommelier with a thesis on the origin of grapes (not that we care). Instead, there is just the clinking of glasses and the pleasant hum of people having fun.
The service is spot on. Our waiter was quick-witted, direct and impressively efficient. He kept the meal flowing smoothly, never feeling rushed, while maintaining a truly Italian warmth and sense of humour. This is a rare professionalism: the ability to be present without being pushy, the ability to be intelligent without being overly familiar.
There is the same balance in food. Squid, for example, is a lesson in simplicity. Cleaned baby squid tubes are marinated with garlic, olive oil and fresh herbs, grilled on a hot steel plate and served with fresh mint, parsley, arugula, tarragon and dill mayonnaise.
Another highlight is the white anchovy fillet; Paired with blistered cherry tomatoes, caper salsa and dill.
Pasta is at the heart of Piccolo. While fresh egg pasta is prepared on site, the long pastas are of the quality grano duro dried variety.
My personal favorite is the duck, leek and mushroom packets that I call ‘duck nuts’. They come with buttery, toasted pecans, Grana Padano, and crunchy sage.
Meatballs and lasagna (both meat and eggplant versions) are home-cooked fare, as is the rustic, hearty and filling grilled goat chops.
Mr. Collova says the patties are made fresh every day and often sell out on busy nights.
This is the kind of food that works as well for a business lunch as it does for a long weekend dinner: generous portions, honest flavors, and no unnecessary frills.
The wine list reflects the food philosophy. Italian and Australian bottles were selected for value and drinkability.
“Like our food, we believe in offering the best products and the best possible prices and service,” Mr. Collova said.
“Affordable, easy-drinking wines suitable for our menu.”
This straightforward approach is reflected throughout with a simple, approachable and affordable offering.
Open for lunch seven nights a week from 5pm until Friday and Sunday, Piccolo Trattoria has become a quiet mainstay of Subiaco’s food scene.
For the business crowd this is a gem; A place where you can discuss pasta deals without distraction, where the service is impeccable and the food is generous.
Yes, that’s duck peanuts.
Piccolo Trattoria Subiaco
361 Rokeby Street
Subiaco, WA 6008
• Georgia Moore is editor-in-chief of the WA Good Food Guide
