A luxurious and laid-back train trip from Brisbane to Adelaide
“I will ask the ancestors to keep an eye on you tonight.”
Gumbaynggirr artist Matthew Flanders has completed his introduction and official welcome to Country. He stands with his back to deserted Charlesworth Bay, a small bay north of Coffs Harbor in NSW, with the sun behind him turning the horizon a soft pink. We stand or sit in a semicircle on the sand, facing Flanders, the only people on the beach. Our buses may have passed Big Banana just a short drive from the train station, but this sheltered area feels a world away from the theme parks and surf shops of the Coffs.
Many travel companies offer exclusive experiences that no one else can match, and this dinner under the stars as part of our Great Southern rail journey from Brisbane to Adelaide is exactly that, but although it’s exclusive, it doesn’t feel elite. After the sunset ceremony, we sit down at long rows of tables to share generous plates of local shrimp and oysters, perfectly pink Angus steak, roasted Dorrigo potatoes, and this morning’s fly-caught fish from the bay behind us. Under the shadow of fairy lights and the soft atmosphere created by two acoustic guitarists, the evening has the feel of a summer wedding.
This journey may be luxurious, but it is very comfortable. This makes sense. We do not travel between major European capitals; We’re here to experience the diversity of the Australian landscape on an epic 2885 kilometer journey from Queensland to South Australia. Hats, sunscreen and sturdy shoes are a must. Not so much formal gowns and dinner sets.
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Unlike sleeper trains designed for travel, Journey Beyond offers a rail “experience” meaning organized opportunities to get off the train and see and do more. I’m looking forward to wine tasting in the Hunter Valley and being a tourist in my own town when we stop in Melbourne, but secretly I’d be happy if the train didn’t stop until it reached Adelaide. Just as there are people who love train travel, there are also people who love train travel. I am one of the latter, especially when the train is as beautifully equipped as the Great Southern.
My favorite way to spend time is looking out my cabin window. I have traveled this route by road many times, so the view is like visiting an old friend. Not long after Brisbane we arrive in the interior of southern Queensland, where shiny black cows doze in the shade and rolling hills are dotted with classic wooden farmhouses and rusty tin sheds. The route clings to the coast as it heads south, then heads inland, offering views of farmland, bushland and small towns.
It takes some time to get used to the train. Navigating the wagon aisles requires dexterity. Although my bed was very comfortable, sleeping on the train was not as pleasant as I remembered. After our difficult first night, Chloe, one of the cheerful cabin crew who takes care of Gold Premium passengers, says, “Don’t worry, you’ll get used to it, tonight will be better.”
After a day exploring the Hunter Valley, Port Stephens or Newcastle, there’s a buzz in the lounge and there’s no shortage of friendly conversation. Passengers include many overseas guests who take the opportunity to see Australia while visiting friends and family, as well as locals who want a unique view of home. Every great rail journey in Australia is attended by a few people.
On our last night on the train, I join my travel companions for dinner to compare notes on the day’s excursions and the trip in general. The menu is sophisticated but unpretentious and proudly local. We’re all jealous of the travelers who continue on to Perth across the Indo-Pacific Ocean. On their journey by train across Australia, they travel in an increasingly popular style; they see the vast expanse of a country at a delightfully slow pace. This is an idea I can agree with.
DETAIL
TYPE
The four-day Great Southern all-inclusive cruise from Brisbane to Adelaide costs $3790 per person (Gold Premium).
Journey Beyond offers pre- and post-trip accommodation and tour options.
Phone 13 21 47; To see journeybeyondrail.com.au
FLY
Virgin Australia, Qantas and Jetstar all offer domestic flights to Brisbane and Adelaide. To see virginaustralia.com; qantas.com; jetstar.com
The author traveled as a guest of Journey Beyond.
