Getting over grief with the penguins of Antarctica

Visualize the scene; You’re cross-country skiing across an icy snowscape: just you, the frozen sea, and a group of sledding Adelie penguins. They waddle as you pass by, wondering what you’re doing. Deciding that you’re probably okay, they continue sledding on their bellies next to you as you head back to your camp.

Happily for conservation biologist, author and seabird ecology researcher Louise Blight, this is just one of the magical penguins she encountered on a research trip to Antarctica.

This beautifully written memoir of three months stationed at Cape Royds reveals a fantastical view of the frozen world.

Blight is there partly to escape the pain of losing his sister to cancer, but mainly to study colonies of Adelie penguins native to the continent. To do this, Blight and the project’s leader, ecologist and Adelie penguin expert David Ainley, set out from the warm, civilized home base of McMurdo Sound for the wilder climes of Cape Royds.

Everything is difficult in Antarctica; Every few kilometers there are remnants of previous expeditions. Reminders of Scott and Shackleton are ubiquitous. The Expedition Hut, built as a warehouse for Scott’s expedition in 1901-04, is still completely intact; a wind-blown microcosm still filled with old cans of Bovril and baking soda, as well as two air-dried, desiccated sheep carcasses.

It is a cold thing; temperatures drop to -20C and winds blow at 80 knots (on land, this means ‘violence and destruction’ to come). But Antarctic life has its funnier inconveniences, too. Urine is shipped by helicopter from smaller camps to McMurdo and then sent for disposal to the country where those producing the urine came from. If you want to be warm enough to sleep, you need to do sit-ups at night. And sunscreen should be applied to every little exposed crevice of your skin, not just the top of your nose or forehead.

Where Earth Meets Sky is now available at Mail Bookstore

Blight’s descriptions of the penguins’ activities are so quietly observant that you almost read with bated breath to avoid disturbing the little birds.

Yet it’s human connection, or lack thereof, that underpins Blight’s story, from Brien editing the local Antarctic newspaper to NASA’s Erik studying the ozone hole, to the Kray brothers’ relative Paul, and friendly Kiwi Murray dropping heaps of Blight from his high-calorie Bumper Bars.

Kiwis are quite successful in this regard; They provide a cheerful and relaxed approach to sub-zero life with their high-sugar treats and merino long johns.

It’s funny that even though all these people live in Antarctica and work on absolutely fascinating things, nothing excites them more than the prospect of visiting penguins. The effect these flightless birds have on us is like a vice.

The most enigmatic character in the frozen life of the Blight is Royds friend David. He speaks little during the three months they are together – his voice becomes ‘choked’ from lack of use – and towards the end of their time together Blight discovers that he is married and has a dog. He learns this from a colleague; God forbid David to reveal anything about himself. Blight is more forgiving than most; He attributes his silence to his introversion rather than rudeness. However, you wonder if saying a few more words a day would really hurt him.

Blight embarked on this journey after his sister’s death. He arrives almost paralyzed with grief, putting his doctorate and his life on hold. But he leaves with newfound peace, where he can begin to build a new life in the cold silence of this frozen kingdom among the Adelies.