What should we see with 11 days to drive California?
Idea
Michael Gebicki is Traveler’s expert Tripologist. Each week he covers the thorny topics in travel and answers your questions. Have a question for Tripolog? Email tripologist@traveller.com.au
Before attending a wedding in San Francisco on April 2, Week in California’s Red Mountain. We’d love to hear suggestions on how to spend our time as we head into San Francisco between March 22nd and March 31st. We experience the joy of driving.
M. Bade, East Brighton, Vic
Late March is the perfect season for California; Snow still lingers in the higher elevations, temperatures are milder, and wildflowers begin to bloom in the desert. You will need a vehicle and since you have plenty of time, I recommend a somewhat circuitous itinerary. Since the roads crossing the mountain from the east will be closed in March, you first head east to Nevada, then west and north to follow the Sierra Mountain Range.
From Red Mountain in the Mojave, head northeast and stay two nights at Furnace Creek. Use this time to explore Death Valley National Park. Highlights include sunrise at Zabriskie Point, Badwater Basin salt flats, Gold Canyon hike, and sunset at Dante’s View. The Titus Canyon drive is great but only try it if you have a high clearance vehicle. Temperatures should be tolerable, but check temperature and wind forecasts.
The third day takes you west to join US Route 395; Stop for two nights in Lone Pine for dramatic views of the Sierras to the east; Hike the Alabama Hills and visit the iconic Mobius Arch. From here, head south and then north through Bakersfield and Fresno toward Yosemite National Park. In March, you can expect spectacular views, including thundering waterfalls fed by melting snow. The Lower Yosemite Falls loop, the Mist Trail (provided it’s clear and safe), and the Sentinel Bridge at sunset are must-sees.
Stay within Yosemite National Park or in El Portal or Mariposa. If you stay out, you’ll need an America the Beautiful Non-Resident Annual Pass, which costs US$250 ($350) and includes the entire vehicle and passengers, since you’ll be making multiple visits. If you only enter the park once, the fee for non-residents will be US$100 ($140) per person.
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From Yosemite, head southwest to Big Sur, an exciting stretch of California coastline. Spend some time here to relax and enjoy the setting, visiting local beaches, Pfeiffer State Park, and the Monterey Peninsula, including Carmel-by-the-Sea, a flamboyant, artistic village favored by the rich and famous. From here it’s easy to head north on California Highway 1 to San Francisco.
I will visit Casablanca for a day on a ship in June. Instead of wandering around Casablanca, I considered taking the train to Rabat. Would this be a worthwhile journey?
T. Denham, West Pennant Hills, NSW
Casablanca has limited appeal, and Rabat can be more satisfying if you watch the time carefully to make sure you get back to your ship well before departure. High-speed trains from Casablanca to Rabat cover this distance in one hour. The journey from Casablanca Cruise Port to the train station will take approximately 20 minutes, and the train station in Rabat is also close to the capital’s main attractions. These include the 12th-century Hassan Tower minaret, Rabat’s iconic landmark, and the nearby mausoleum containing the tombs of King Mohammed V and Hassan II, which makes a great photo stop.
Next, head to the Kasbah of Udayas, a historic district of blue-and-white streets located at the mouth of the Bou Regreg River, overlooking the Atlantic and the Medina of Sale. The Andalusian Garden is a featured stop for mint tea at Cafe des Oudayas, overlooking the river. A dramatic, less touristy part of the city, Chellah is an archaeological site with Roman ruins and a medieval Islamic necropolis filled with storks that often nest in the minarets.
Finally, a wandering exploration of the souk, which is much smaller and more authentic than its counterparts in Fes or Marrakesh. You will need a guide, see. Local People’s Tours There are many Rabat guides on the website with excellent references.
At the end of April I’m flying to Amsterdam for a week to visit areas where Canadian troops and their allies fought against the Nazis in 1944-45. I want to see the Scheldt region, then go to Wageningen and the hotel where German forces surrendered, then go to Apeldoorn for the Liberation Day celebration. Suggestions for the Scheldt in particular would be welcomed.
K. Pisichko, Coimbra, Portugal
This is a great theme for a trip. Spend your first two days exploring Zeeland and the Scheldt Estuary. The Battle of the Scheldt was critical to clearing the Germans from the estuary, as without it Antwerp would not have been available as a supply port and the Allied advance would have stalled. Notable landmarks include Sloedam and the Walcheren Pass, the Westkapelle and the Walcheren seawall, which the British bombarded to flood German positions; The Polderhuis Museum in Westkapelle explains this vividly. The Breskens Pocket was key to clearing the southern bank of the Scheldt and pay your respects at the Canadian War Cemetery Bergen op Zoom. The rest of your time explore Camp Vught National Monument, Overloon War Museum, and Wings of Liberation Museum, all located in the North Brabant region.
Follow this with Arnhem and Oosterbeek, the site of Operation Market Garden, where you can visit the excellent Hartenstein Air Museum and Oosterbeek War Cemetery, the Freedom Museum and Canadian War Cemetery at Groesbeek and the Canadian War Cemetery near Nijmegen, where the Canadians held and expanded the bridgehead in the winter of 1944-45, and finally the Hotel de Wereld at Wageningen, where German forces surrendered to Canadian General Charles. Foulkes, May 5, 1945. To make the most of this experience, you need a car. Zeeland’s battlefields are in rural areas, war cemeteries are outside cities, and a car gives you the flexibility to stop at smaller monuments.
My wife and I are considering a trip to the Veneto region of Italy in May. Do you have any recommendations for companies offering small group tours to Umbria, Tuscany, Bologna and Lucca? We are interested in multi-night venue based tours. We are an active couple in our late 60s and early 70s. Walking tours are no problem.
K. Simmonds, New Farm, Qld
One of the small group operators focusing on regional tours Untold Italy. It organizes seven-day tours to some of Italy’s most attractive regions, including Puglia, southern Tuscany, Umbria and Sicily. These are high-end trips that offer culinary experiences, expert guides, comfortable transportation and luxury accommodation, and this is reflected in the prices.
If you want something cheaper, To discover! There are many regional tours ranging from eight to 15 days; average group size is 11. Italian Tours It is run by Sydney-based Luca Torrigiani and Philippa Hansen, who guide many of their own tours and offer themed tours as well as regional experiences such as the great gardens of Italy or a cultural and culinary tour of Emilia-Romagna. Groups are limited to 12 people and the reviews are top notch.
Travel advice is general; readers should consider their personal circumstances
Michael Gebicki is a Sydney-based travel writer best known for his Tripologist column, which has appeared in Traveler for over 15 years. With four decades of experience, his specialty is practical advice, destination insights and problem solving for travellers. He also designs and leads slow, immersive tours to some of his favorite places. Connect via Instagram @michael_gebickiConnect via email.
