Sama is a Middle Eastern restaurant in The Grandview Hotel in Fairfield
Go to the parking lot at the back of the three-story 1888 building and look for the pink neon sign that says “Sama.”
Middle East$$
Here? In this old bar full of Fox Sports, TAB and steak night signs? Really? Yes, trust me. On the back of the 1888 landmark located in the parking lot, you’ll see a pink neon sign that says “Sama.” It points the way to a remarkable new Lebanese restaurant.
The bistro of the Grandview Hotel, which has been open since November, has been redesigned as a dining hall for 50 people. Well-spaced tables and fabrics make this place suitable for those who have difficulty in noisy spaces. Sheer curtains, bentwood chairs and paper-covered linen tablecloths signal sophisticated dining. Black-and-white family photographs and enlarged old Lebanese postage stamps tell the story of the old country. The pressed-tin bar, which houses a fleet of beer kegs, says 19th-century Melbourne pub, but the menu is all about tahini, toum, pita and pomegranate.
Norah El-Fahkri was 11 years old when her father bought the bar in 2000. He remembers going up and down the stairs, wondering about ghosts. He has long wanted to bring his family’s Lebanese food culture to the Aussie building. The vision took shape when he teamed up with Eddy Hasbany, the Lebanese-born former manager of Brunswick East’s legendary Rumi restaurant.
Chef David Gonnella (also ex-Rumi) is bringing his culinary ideas to life with the help of existing bar chefs who are excited to expand the repertoire.
Hasbany manages a friendly and well-trained wait staff. He also came up with the name: “Sama” means sky in Arabic. Hasbany told me that for him, growing up amidst geopolitical conflict as a child, the sky was a conceptual refuge. “We looked to the sky for peace,” he says. “The sky does not judge, there are no checkpoints, everyone belongs.”
Sama’s food draws from tradition but the tweaks reflect today’s Melbourne. You can choose hummus topped with ground lamb or the bright, gypsy European-style version with lemon and capers. There’s pub-style crispy fried whitebait, but it’s Lebanese style in oil and served with yoghurt and crispy pita bread.
Tabbouleh, a parsley and cracked wheat salad, is spooned onto lettuce boats sang-choy-bao style. Spicy beef cheek sits atop moghrabieh (giant couscous) to roll at the table.
Vegetables become heroes in dishes such as zucchini skewers, grated vegetables are placed on skewers and covered with heavy tomato grate.
Knafe (a sweet pastry) meets fancy French millefeuille and Aussie vanilla slice in a rich pistachio cream dessert sandwiched between layers of folded kataifi pastry.
The most assertive dish is among the best. Lamb naye is made by pounding fresh fillets with bulgur, onion and spices. When served raw, it is difficult to sell even for many Lebanese people. But in the Sama iteration, roast lamb is rolled into balls, coated with sesame seeds, crushed peanuts or dried rose petals. Raw lamb, yes, but it doesn’t look as cheerful and threatening as the ice cream scoops. On the side are cracked wheat, radishes, onions and mint to cut into exciting bites.
Sama is sincere rather than flashy, but it is a beautiful journey. Hasbany sees a connection between the eponymous sky and the dinner table, recalling the Arabic saying meaning “There is salt and bread between us”, expressing friendship and trust. I hope you’ll trust me to give Sama a try, but I trust Norah, Eddy and the team will take it from there.
Down
Atmosphere: Friendly cultural mix in a surprising environment
Dishes to use: Whitebait fatteh ($24, pictured); lamb naye ($22); tabbouleh bites ($18); knafe millefeuille ($17)
Beverages: There’s local beer on tap, but why not have a bottle of Lebanese Almaza pilsner? There are also Lebanese wines and cocktails made with arak, pomegranate and sumac that you can taste before committing.
Cost: Approximately $140 for two people, excluding drinks
This review was first published on: Have a nice weekend magazine.
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