A guide to Finland’s unique Nordic cuisine
“Should we sit outside?” asks guide Heather Domeney. “It’s a beautiful day.” Originally from Tasmania, Domeney has lived in Helsinki for 23 years and has clearly adapted to the Scandinavian climate. Even though it’s not actually raining, it’s so foggy that I can barely see the other side of the harbour.
Still, it’s ideal weather for a hearty bowl of salmon, potato and dill soup, a creamy soup that’s a Finnish staple year-round. I’m on a condensed version of Domeney’s Tastes of Helsinki tour, which aims to introduce visitors to Finland’s unique take on Scandinavian cuisine.
While cities like Stockholm and Copenhagen continue to garner worldwide acclaim for their innovative culinary scenes, Helsinki has been somewhat overlooked. It’s strange because he shares the same excitement about seasonal produce and foraged ingredients. Maybe Finns are more modest.
During our three-hour tour of the capital, Domeney introduces me to a variety of Finnish favorites, from a delicious barley-filled pie from the Karelia region (an acquired taste) to a delicious almond and coffee cake named after Ellen Svinhufvud, wife of Finland’s third president, who first introduced it in the 1930s.
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We also visit the state-run Alko (the only store allowed to sell wine and spirits) where he points out Kyro, a Finnish gin that has won numerous awards, including World’s Best Gin. Afterwards, we take a tour of an upscale supermarket to peruse a wide selection of rye breads, pickled vegetables, and salted licorice (another acquired taste).
“Seasonality is a big part of daily life,” Domeney says, sampling mixed berries at a market stall near the harbour. While tiny forest blueberries are more on the sweet side of sweet, the bright orange sea buckthorn berry is perhaps the most intensely citrusy fruit I’ve ever tasted. “They contain more vitamin C than oranges,” he says.
Although Helsinki has its share of flashy Michelin-starred establishments, it stands out for its more accessible and affordable eateries. Like nearby Flor, a casual new restaurant and wine bar that is an offshoot of Michelin green-starred Natura. Run by the same chef, David Alberti, the restaurant has a similar focus on sustainability and seasonal produce but operates in an intimate, minimalist space with just seven tables.
Alberti’s experience in award-winning cuisines (including the UK’s first three Michelin star restaurant, Le Gavroche) is evident in both the impeccable presentation and innovative flavor combinations. Standout dishes include tender pike perch with a rich bourguignon sauce and aged salmon with spicy sea buckthorn tiger milk. A nice meal without the high price tag. The five-course “surprise” menu is only €49 ($85).
Visit Skord to understand what’s possible if you don’t ruthlessly compromise on using local products. All ingredients except salt are from Finland. So no spices, no black pepper, no coffee or tea. To make this even more difficult, they insist that everything must be grown outside or in the wild, so nothing is processed or mass produced.
A rustic, nine-table venue with exposed brick walls, Skord offers a four- and six-course tasting menu that changes daily. Highlights during my visit include creamy chanterelle mushroom soup with tangy drops of garlic mustard oil and a rich pan-roasted wild duck breast with pureed parsnips and rowan berries.
If restricting yourself to Finnish products wasn’t difficult enough, they put the same restriction on their wines. Finland has a hard time growing grapes, but fruit is thriving, so I pair my food with unexpectedly good fruit-based wines. Of particular note are the dry, sparkling red currant rosé from Tarkiainen Winery and the decadent raspberry dessert wine from Ainoa Winery, which is autumnal in a glass.
“We cook like our grandmothers did,” the waiter explains. “They had to make a living from the forests and fields. I have no idea what will be on the menu tomorrow.”
DETAIL
TO STAY
Conveniently located in the heart of the city, Hotel Kamp has been a symbol of Helsinki since 1887. The hotel recently added a new wing of luxury suites and will also open an upgraded restaurant and spa towards the end of this year. Starting from €320 ($555) per night. To see hotelkamp.com
TYPE
The Tastes of Helsinki tour costs €130 ($225) per person. To see heathershelsinki.com
Scandinavian specialist 50 Degrees North can organize a bespoke Finland itinerary including flights, accommodation, activities and meals. To see fiftydegreesnorth.com
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To see myhelsinki.fi
The author was a guest of 50 Degrees North and Helsinki Partners.
Having abandoned a decent career in IT, Rob McFarland now splits his time between Sydney, the US and Europe. He has won six writing awards and regularly hosts workshops for aspiring writers. Follow his travels on Instagram @mctraveller
