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Amber Keeps It Fresh After 20 Years in HK to Notch Third Michelin Star

(Bloomberg) — We survey the dining scene to tell you where to eat — everything from hole-in-the-wall establishments to three-Michelin-star establishments. Read all our reviews here.

Dutch-born chef Richard Ekkebus has been running the luxury restaurant Amber since 2005, charting a journey of more than 20 years to achieve three Michelin stars. Ekkebus took the top honors in March after winning the first two in 2009, and the restaurant received a “green” star in 2022. This increases the pressure to innovate in the competitive, high-end dining environment.

Yet Amber, inside the Landmark Mandarin Oriental hotel (also home to the three-star Sushi Shikon), rises to the challenge by evolving with the seasons.

Fresh produce is attracting attention, especially after Ekkebus completely eliminated dairy and gluten from its dishes a few years ago. The result is an offering that lets unique ingredients like Tasmanian pepper fruit and duck foie gras shine. Other surprises include ishigakidai, a fish rarely found on menus. It is also known as the spotted knife jaw and is usually found only in summer and autumn.​

If a French restaurant has found a way to make it dairy-free (for example, using cashew butter that’s just as delicious as the original), you can trust it to accommodate dietary needs and preferences. Amber offers a vegetarian menu that can be adapted for vegans, which she proudly advertises. As expected, this quality and attention to detail comes with a big price tag. A six-course dinner starts at HK$2,058, while an eight-course experience starts at HK$2,888 and includes a culinary tour. Lunch might be a more wallet-friendly option, with three courses starting from HK$928 on weekdays. When we visited on a Wednesday evening, our bill for three came to HK$10,657, including service. We chose the basic menu with various upgrades and a glass of wine each. If you choose to go big for a special occasion, you can trust Amber to deliver something fresh. In terms of identity, he is comfortable but not complacent; perhaps the secret sauce to its lasting power.​

Ambiance: Modern and elegant, with interior design by New York designer Adam D. Tihany. Tables are spread out, with private areas that can accommodate up to eight guests, as well as apparently more staff than diners.

Who’s with you: The night we were there it was mainly couples. Many were seen celebrating special occasions.

Can you have a meeting here? This depends on your comfort level. The restaurant is in a narrow space where most diners in the main room sit next to each other rather than facing each other. The two more private rooms have a standard table and chair setup.​

What we’d order again: Amber’s signature Aka uni with cauliflower mousse, lobster and caviar, add-on, HK$498. It remained on the menu for years, and rightly so. The Basque country’s Kintoa pork ribs proved outstanding, but the accompanying matsutake cooked in cocotte in fig leaves stole the show. You might want to add ouka wagyu for HK$750, but the pork comes delivered without a premium. It’s a rich enough meal as it is.

Need to know: Amber is located on the seventh floor of the Landmark Mandarin Oriental hotel in Central. It is open from noon to 16.00 for lunch and from 18.00 to midnight for dinner. Reservations can be made online.

This was first published in Hong Kong Edition, a weekly newsletter. Click here to subscribe for free.

For more Michelin-certified restaurants, check out our reviews of French bistro Belon , value-for-money dim sum gem Yat Tung Heen , and Spanish-Japanese fusion spot Ando .

Are there any restaurants you think we should visit? Let us know at hkedition@bloomberg.net. See all our reviews here.

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