Brij Sone Bagh: A sustainable luxury forest retreat in Bandhavgarh

The sounds of the forest deepen; the rustle of bamboo, the rhythmic call of drones, and the faint alarm call of a spotted deer somewhere ahead. A few turns later, as we round a bend, a tiger appears, reclining under a sal tree, its striped wing rising and falling in a slow rhythm. For a moment, all sounds stopped. The forest is holding its breath.

I am on safari in Bandhavgarh with Guljar Singh, who has been exploring these forests for years. “The forest changes with every rain,” he says as we drive past grasslands and saltbushes, sunlight filtering through layers of green. The core area of ​​Bandhavgarh covers an area of ​​720 square kilometers with an additional 816 square kilometers in the buffer zone.

We see the Indian pita, dazzling in turquoise and orange, jumping over a fallen branch. Owls in the forest blink from their perches, and a giant tree spider hangs between two trees, its web glistening like glass. Above us, a small group of vultures circle lazily in widening spirals. Guide Guljar Singh explains that the Tala area has become one of the few remaining strongholds for these endangered birds in Bandhavgarh.

Tiger might be the highlight of the trip, but there are plenty of things to keep me busy during my stay at Brij Sone Bagh, Brij Hotels’ newest resort. First of all, peace. The first thing I notice when I arrive from Madhya Pradesh’s Jabalpur airport after a four-hour journey is the layered sounds of the forest. Cicadas, the distant hooting of an owl and the rustle of leaves moved by the wind.

“This retreat is nestled in a 32-acre natural forest,” says Arvind Bhende, head of regional development at Brij Hotels, over a glass of cold, spiced buttermilk. Designed by architect Deepika Sethi of Atelier15, Brij Sone Bagh’s five villas made of local stone and wood rest quietly among ancient sal and bamboo trees. Paths wind naturally around the grounds and the gardens merge seamlessly with the forest. “We wanted the design to obey the terrain rather than dominate it,” says Sethi.

A view of Brij Sone Bagh Resort in Bandhavgarh in Madhya Pradesh. | Photo Credit: SPECIAL EDITING

My villa, named Vanar after the langur, consists of a mixture of cane and antique-style wooden furniture, hand-woven cotton fabrics and textured walls. Small touches reveal the artistic spirit of the region: Pieces of dokra metalwork from neighboring Chhattisgarh hang on the bedroom walls.

A view of Brij Sone Bagh Resort in Bandhavgarh in Madhya Pradesh. | Photo Credit: SPECIAL EDITING

I eat under an old jamun tree. Cool air carries the scent of moist soil. A local villager, wearing traditional attire to honor the snake god, plays the flute as chef Dharmender Kumar (or Dharma, as he is affectionately called) hosts an outdoor barbecue nearby. He slowly turns the chicken, which had been marinated earlier in the day in a mixture of turmeric, ginger, garlic and foraged forest herbs. The scent of smoke, spices and mahua flowers mixes with the night air.

Bamboo fish | Photo Credit: SPECIAL EDITING

Dharma also invites me into her kitchen for what she calls a “field to kadhai” session. He brought fresh produce like amla, coriander bunches and green chillies from the local market. With measured ease, she shows me how to prepare amla chutney and the tangy, green chutney; he adjusts flavors by instinct rather than recipe. The chicken we marinated together—wrapped in banana leaves and slow-cooked in bamboo—appears for dinner later that evening, tender and fragrant, tasting of smoke, herbs, and rain-washed earth.

Zero kilometer philosophy

“Almost everything you eat here comes from several miles away,” Dharma tells me. “This is our zero-mile kitchen.” This “zero kilometer philosophy” lies at the core of Brij Sone Bagh’s ethos. Vegetables come from neighboring farms, milk from local dairy farmers, and grains such as kodo millet and lentils from nearby villages. Even spices and mahua-based recipes are sourced from local women’s cooperatives. This approach shortens food distances, sustains rural livelihoods and offers guests the opportunity to taste local cuisine.

Sustainability initiatives

The sustainability of the retreat extends beyond food. Saahas, an NGO known for circular waste management, handles dry waste collection and carries out monthly neighborhood cleaning along the approach road. Less than five percent of collected waste reaches landfills; the rest is recycled or composted. Organic waste is processed in the on-site goshala, where cattle manure is used as soil for the kitchen garden. Water needs are met by the perennial Charan Ganga river flowing nearby.

jungle safari

Gypsies during morning safari in Bandhavgarh. | Photo Credit: SPECIAL EDITING

A tiger passes in front of the gypsies | Photo Credit: Getty Images

Gypsies go on a morning safari in Bandhavgarh, Madhya Pradesh. | Photo Credit: SPECIAL EDITING

Back on safari, we stop for breakfast at a designated forest clearing, where chef Dharma and nature guides spread hot parathas, fresh fruits and chilled watermelon juice on the bonnet of the jeep.

Before leaving the Tala area, we take a short break at Sheshshaiya, one of the most remarkable archaeological sites of Bandhavgarh. Located deep in the forest, at the foot of a moss-covered hill, this ancient sandstone statue of Lord Vishnu reclining on the seven-capped serpent Sheshnag is believed to date back to the 10th century AD. The statue is preserved by the Archaeological Survey of India and remains a symbol of the layered history of the region.

That evening, I walk to a nearby village where only three families continue the local art of bamboo weaving. “We used to be more numerous,” says Karishma Basoi, who expertly divides the bamboo strip. “Only a few make tourist crafts anymore.” His fingers move with a memory of the resort, the tiger reserve, even before tourism itself.

The writer was at Brij Sone Bagh in Bandhavgarh upon the invitation of Brij Hotels.

It was published – 27 November 2025 11:10 IST