Can Andy Burnham’s casual style survive contact with No 10
It may seem unimportant, but clothes are important in politics.
As previous British prime ministers, especially Harold Wilson and Margaret Thatcher, have shown, fashion can be used as a powerful political tool.
Known for her wardrobe of high-shouldered suits, bow-tied blouses and her iconic bag, Thatcher cultivated an image that sought to convey a sense of authority and purpose.
By contrast, Wilson, often distinguished by his ever-present pipe and Gannex coat, was famous for the pragmatic, utilitarian wardrobe that defined the “cloth hat” socialism of the 1960s and 70s.
Rob Ford, professor of political science at the University of Manchester, says the way female politicians dress is much more scrutinized than their male counterparts.
“There’s a tremendous double standard in this,” says Ford. “It’s harder for a female politician because you always have to choose.”
At least he says men can always resort to suits.
But image isn’t everything, as Conservative Party leader Kemi Badenoch suggested last month when she dismissed Burnham as “a pair of eyelashes and a black T-shirt”.
In a video responding to his dig, Burnham looked at his T-shirt and said: “It’s not black, it’s a dark navy blue.”
Dressed in a suit and tie, Burnham couldn’t resist bringing up his attire again in his speech after being confirmed as the new leader of the Labor Party this week.
He said Labor had worn “too much Tory clothing” in the past.
“Let me tell you, I’m pretty happy that Kemi doesn’t approve of my wardrobe choices, because I’m not into theirs either,” Burnham said. “We do it differently from here on out.”
Ironically, Sir Keir Starmer had also adopted the simple-dress spirit of his successor; The outgoing prime minister was sometimes seen wearing tracksuits, a Stone Island polo shirt and Adidas sneakers.
The difference, according to Prof Rob Ford, is that Burnham’s fashion choices have captured the public’s attention.
“The fact that people recognize that he has a distinctive style of dressing is a victory for his branding efforts,” says Ford.
Like Reform UK leader Nigel Farage, Burnham likes to be photographed drinking beer in pubs.
“The purpose of my clothes is similar: to say that I’m not a professional politician, that I’m one of you,” Ford says.
It will be difficult for Burnham to maintain this approachable, understated persona while adhering to Westminster’s sartorial traditions and expectations.
In an age where politics has never been more visual, whatever she decides to wear, she will have to dress to impress.
