Changed physical space, but the spiritual legacy of Ashura continues in Hyderabad’s old quarter

Moharram’s passionate act on the streets of Hyderabad’s old city carried an extra dose of brutality on Friday afternoon. The main road from Aza Khana Zehra (built in the 1930s) to Darul Shifa (hospital built in the 1590s) and further on to Daira Mir Momin (cemetery from the 1600s) bore no resemblance to previous years, with buildings demolished, shops moved and construction debris strewn along the route.

The change is clearly visible. “We were cooking in the Niyaaz Khana (kitchen) adjacent to the building. But this year, we have to cook outdoors,” said Rahim Khan of Act Public Welfare Foundation. In earlier years, the ceremonial elephant would enter the residence for residents to offer their dhatti for blessings. For the first time, it was carried out in a makeshift manner. Only a small part of the Niyaz Inn, its wooden structure, is still intact.

Sitting on a white plastic chair outside Ashoorkhana Zainabia, Muhammad Ali points to a spot on the road to show the former size of the property. “We set up this tin shed and the covering of the ashure 10 days ago. We are on our way,” he says, surrounded by construction rubble.

Muharram procession passing through the old neighborhoods of Hyderabad. | Photo Credit: Serish Nanisetti

Outside the 260-year-old Ashoorkhana Shahzade Ali Asghar, food is prepared on the road and served to everyone at the same time. Part of the rear part of the building, which was converted into a shop, has been lost. The parade continued to be noisy and crowded; People were jostling to touch the parade of alam brought from different ashuras. Even though it was framed by a ruined city, it remained the same.

The Darul Shifa road was lined with high pavilions outside the houses, filled with people waiting to make offerings. This year, people stood on metal scaffoldings in the middle of the road to do the same. “The surviving religious structures will soon turn into islands when the metro comes. I can’t imagine what it will look like with the Maatam procession, the elephant sharing the space with the metro pillars, and a train passing overhead,” says architect and historian Sibghat Khan.

In some houses, people looked outside as they waited for the parade. But instead of windows or balconies, they were standing or sitting on torn door frames and windowsills. “We could have at least protected the front lines, but that opportunity was also lost,” Mr. Khan says.

Muharram procession

Muharram procession passes through the old city, where road expansion works for the metro have started. | Video Credit: Serish Nanisetti

While the physical location changed on the day of Ashura, those who wore black, hit their chest with their right hand, and recited the elegies of the battle of Karbala remained the same. GHMC and Water Board kiosks distributed water packets to prevent blood self-flagellation. “We treated about 200 people for minor cuts. One person had a deep cut and we referred him to the hospital,” said Fatima, who set up a small medical facility to provide first aid and treatment to the injured.