Considering a Lake District staycation? After 20 years exploring the national park, these are the worst and the best places to go

For two decades I have spent countless weekends in the Lake District hiking, swimming, camping, climbing remote hills and paddling hidden ponds.

And during this time I have watched some of its most beautiful villages and most famous viewpoints fall victim to their own beauty.

Despite having a permanent population of only 40,000 people, around 18 million people now visit Cumbria’s National Park a year, and judging by the complaints of locals and visitors alike, this mismatch in numbers is becoming unsustainable.

This is not a rumor about tourists; after all, as a southerner who regularly travels to this beautiful spot, I am one of them. And I firmly believe that everyone should have access to the outdoors.

But there are now parts of the Lakes where traffic jams stretch bumper to bumper for miles, where pavements are overrun, where illegal parking, barbecue-induced fires and overcrowding have become serious hazards and an eyesore.

Good news? There are still wonderful corners of the Lake District that feel quieter, more authentic and much more pleasant than the hot spots you’ll see on Instagram.

Read on to find out where I’ll be avoiding this summer and where I’ll be going instead…

Avoid: Ambleside

One summer afternoon in Ambleside I spent half an hour sitting in traffic trying to crawl less than a mile.

At one point, I noticed a road sign reminding American visitors which side of the road to take; This is a clue to how popular the town has become internationally.

There’s lots to do in the town of Ambleside: beautiful outdoor shops, beautiful old buildings and easy access to Windermere.

But in peak season it looks more like a theme park version of Cumbria than a Lakeland village; complete with crazy queues for ice cream and painfully quaint tea shops overcharging hapless walkers for tea and cake.

In the summer I find it difficult to walk on Ambleside’s pavements, let alone park here, and residents regularly complain of congestion.

There are now some noticeable parts of the Lakes where traffic jams stretch bumper to bumper for miles, where pavements are overrun, where illegal parking, barbecue-induced fires and overcrowding have become serious hazards. Image: Sian Lewis

I once spent half an hour sitting in traffic in Ambleside on a summer afternoon, crawling for less than a mile.

Visit instead: Kendal

Kendal may not be particularly photogenic or have a lake on its front door, but it’s a proper market town where people actually live and work, with independent shops, excellent pubs and far fewer crowds.

It’s also home to the spectacular Mount Kendal Festival every November, where adventurers, filmmakers and outdoor enthusiasts flock to the town for talks, films and events; This is a good excuse to visit the Lakes out of season.

If you stay here, you’ll still have easy access to the countryside thanks to better coffee and less traffic.

Kendal may not be particularly photogenic or have a lake on its front door, but it’s a proper market town where people actually live and work, with independent shops, excellent pubs and far fewer crowds.

Avoid: Grasmere

The greystone village of Grasmere (pop. 556) is undeniably beautiful, but these days it feels like every visitor to the Lake District congregates there to pay homage to Wordsworth, badly park their Chelsea tractors (or 50-seater buses) or pop into the village’s world-famous gingerbread shop for a must-have souvenir (just order online!).

I avoid this honeypot break, especially during school holidays.

Sian writes that there are still wonderful corners of the Lake District that feel quieter, more authentic and much more pleasant than the hot spots you’ll see on Instagram

The dinky greystone village of Grasmere (pop. 556) is undeniably beautiful, but I avoid this honeypot break, especially during school holidays

Visit instead: Rydal

The small, quiet village of Rydal, just down the road, feels like Grasmere’s quieter sibling.

Mount Rydal, where William Wordsworth spent much of his life, is currently being renovated but the historic house and charming garden tea room are worth a visit when they reopen.

The walk to Rydal Water is beautiful, there are peaceful paths through the ancient woodland and even in summer you can find some truly tranquil moments here. All the landscapes that inspired Wordsworth, but much less crowded.

The quiet little village of Rydal just down the road feels like Grasmere’s quieter sibling

Avoid: Windermere

England’s largest lake must be one of the jewels of the Lake District, but in recent years Windermere has become associated with a very different headline.

Concerns about sewer discharges and water quality have sparked national debate, while campaigners and locals have also raised fears about the long-term health of the lake.

Add in cruise boats, paddleboard rentals, busy walking paths and jam-packed car parks around the shore, and it’s not the peaceful escape (or leisurely swim!) you might imagine.

Sian recommends visiting smaller lakes such as Coniston, which still attract large numbers of visitors in the summer months but remain more low-key. Pictured: Sian enjoying the outdoors in the Lake District

England’s largest lake must be one of the jewels of the Lake District but in recent years Windermere has become synonymous with a very different headline

Instead visit: Coniston

Coniston has its own famous lake and mountain scenery and still attracts large numbers of visitors in the summer months, but remains somewhat more low-key.

You can swim, paddle, walk up to the Old Man of Coniston or sit at a bar overlooking the water.

To me it looks more like a working Lakeland village than a tourist resort.

Coniston has its own famous lake and mountain scenery and still attracts large numbers of visitors in the summer months, but remains somewhat more low-key

Avoid: Helvellyn

The last time I climbed Helvellyn on a summer weekend, it reminded me of that famous photo of people queuing up Everest.

England’s third highest mountain is one of our country’s classic hikes and Striding Edge is a truly exciting route. But on busy days the back is an endless array of brightly colored waterproof jackets.

At the same time, I was shocked by the number of extremely underprepared people who attempted this rather challenging hike, wearing only trainers with no grip (or even the unspeakable: Crocs), no water, no map.

Mountain Rescue teams in Cumbria do incredible work but too often they are called out on walkers who underestimate the hills.

If you’re determined to climb Helvellyn, go at dawn or visit out of season (if you have the right skills and equipment).

The last time I climbed Helvellyn on a summer weekend, it reminded me of that famous photo of people queuing up Everest.

Sian recommends avoiding Helvellyn unless you can get there at dawn or visit out of season

Visit instead: High Street

If you’re looking for a decent walk without feeling like you’ve joined a conga line, I’d head to the High Street instead.

Once a Roman road, this broad ridge stretches for 35 kilometers between Troutbeck and Penrith, offering spectacular views and a real sense of space.

I walked here for hours, seeing only a handful of people; this is a rare occurrence in the busier center of the Lakes.

Despite its name, this fairway is as far away from the hustle and bustle of modern life as it gets, and the route winds through rolling hills and desolate fields, with huge views stretching towards Helvellyn.

The Lake District is one of Britain’s most beautiful landscapes and deserves to be visited with respect.

Skip the traffic jams, look beyond the TikTok hotspots, visit outside the summer season or venture a little further to find the wilder side of the season.