Michael Rider evolves a winning formula in debut for Celine in Paris | Fashion
After one year of music chairs in fashion, September will be one of the biggest show months so far: the first collections of new creative directors, including Matthieu Blazy in Chanel and former Balenciaga designer in Gucci.
Michael Rider, who recently succeeded in Hii Slimane in Celine on Sunday, decided to begin.
Rider showed a mixture of men and women’s clothing in a Bouche, which entertained how the brand plans to shape the future.
The show took place in the expanding workshop of the brand, which is a short jump from the Tuileries Garden. Actor Naomi Watts among the guests and K-Pop Group BTS, who tries to take refuge from the rain under a giant silk from the 18-month South Korean military service, Kim Taehyung scarf It was built on a courtyard.
From 2008 to 2017, the full circle was a full circle for Rider, an American designer who previously worked under Phoebe Philo.
While the fans of his work known as “Philophiles” would restore Rider’s Louche Tailor and Minimalism period, the opening appearance rapidly restricted such expectations.
Instead of large silhouettes, there were a number of skinny jeans and even skinner pants, they were wrapping the calves very tight.
This simple silhouette shook a head to Simple Slimane, who had hon the signature sharp -edged style during his signatures at Saint Laurent and Dior Homme before he met Celine.
Despite the first criticism, Slimane proved that Celine is profitable for LVMH, the parent company of Celine. According to analysts, Celine has doubled its annual sales to € 2.5 billion (£ 2.1 billion), and LVMH has transformed the third largest brand behind Louis Vuitton and Dior. However, in October, he resigned from his rumors of unsuccessful contract negotiations.
Now it is up to Rider to buy that mercenary baton.
Rider’s appointment comes in a difficult time in the fashion industry and a significant slowdown in luxury markets (LVMH reported a 4% sales decline in fashion and leather products for the first quarter of 2025).
At the annual general meeting in April 2024, Bernard Arnault, General Manager of LVMH, said: “Celine, as they are, and even if they work, stylish, hip, sexy fashion for young people.” He said.
In this period of uncertainty, it is seen that Rider began to develop in the current tried and tested formula of Rider instead of cleaning the Arduvase.
Speaking behind the show after the show, Rider said, “He didn’t want to have a sense of wiping, and he said, ı There was a foundation to be built on it. He felt modern for me, felt ethical, felt strong.”
Rider balanced this respect to the past by intertwining with his own fashion story. He shook his head in the American roots, and as the design director of Polo Ralph Lauren, he had fist, colorful knitted V -neck jumpers, clean Oxford shirts and striped ties. The simple evening black appearance, including a non-shoulder dress and satin-gauze blazer, seemed to skillfully remember his previous time in Celine.
The accessories, which were easier to change more easily than a 5,000 pounds jacket of luxury brands, were a focal point. The fingers of the models were covered with multiple gold and primary rings. The chunky bracelets were stacked in the forearms. Giant chain connection necklaces were mixed. Jingling with everything from Dice to Miniature Eiffel Towers.
Rider said he wanted to inject an entertainment element. “I never want to be perceived as cynical. It is good to have a sense of humor in the luxury area,” he said.
The bags ranging from huge woven baskets and enormous leather cases to elegant bags were first decorated with logos ranging from a simple C to the “Triomphe” monograms created by Céline Vipiana, the founder of the house in 1971.
Rider said that a logo was drawn to liquid nature. “They can quickly act something very different from something really enjoyable. They can be many things.”
