From Mount Hotham to Whistler Blackcomb, how an Aussie is running a Canadian ski resort
“We always earn the ‘best resort in North America’ ranking,” says Wendy Brooksbank, my Extremely Canadian guide who has skied in her hometown of Whistler for decades and is now putting all my skiing skills and fitness to the test.
“And Vail (in Colorado) would come in second.” Then in 2016, Vail Resorts paid just over US$1 billion ($1.45 billion) for Whistler. “So we thought they thought, ‘If we can’t beat them, we’ll buy them.’ Or we thought, ‘If we can’t beat them, we’ll buy them.’ to be them’.”
There was a lot of local resistance in the beginning. Whistler’s skiers and lodgers are extremely passionate about two mountains; The combination of Whistler and Blackcomb creates a vast and adventurous ski area. There’s plenty of easy-going, touring terrain, but there’s also some tough (steep) chutes and faces, one of which I’m about to tackle.
“So how have things been going for the last two seasons since BT became boss?” I asked Wendy, trying to delay my stroke. “Oh, he’s really great,” he says. “He’s so friendly, so open to feedback and ideas. I mean, he’s a skier!”
We head off into the distance and I try to follow Wendy’s advice – “always ski with a smile on your face, go forward for momentum, the first turn sets everything up so make it a good turn and keep control of your current turn before moving on to the next turn.”
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If I had worked on this all winter I might have come to the right conclusion. One person who spends all winter, even all year, is Belinda Trembath, the aforementioned “IT” — vice president and chief operating officer of Vail Resorts in Whistler.
BT hails from Melbourne, was a ski instructor at Mount Hotham in the Victorian Alps and moved into marketing that ski area and Falls Creek; When Vail Resorts invested in Australia with the acquisitions of Hotham, Falls Creek and Perisher, he became general manager, first of the Victorian resorts and then of Perisher.
In the snow business, Perisher is the jewel in Australia’s crown; It does as much work as all other areas combined. And Whistler is the jewel in North America’s crown.
When BT was only 15 months into his tenure at Perisher, Vail Resorts asked if he wanted to manage Whistler. So in May 2023, Belinda and her family took action.
Running a ski resort is not just about making sure the lifts are in working order; With business divisions like snow removal, a snow sports school, food and beverage, accommodations and, in Whistler’s case, thousands of staff, there’s an orchestra to manage. There are also complex security issues. In Australia, a resort may subscribe to expert forecasting services; There’s a full team here working on weather, snow cover and mountain safety.
My catch up with BT was organized by his timekeeper, and given all those moving parts, it’s no surprise he needed it. We’re scheduled to meet at the top of the Blackcomb Gondola, and there he is, wearing his red-and-black leaders’ uniform and trademark smile.
Sometimes the boss needs to dive into the details. We set out to do some skiing as planned, but we didn’t get very far. Volunteer mountain hosts, people organizing free mountain tours, notice him and want to know what’s going on with daylight saving time and how it will affect the opening hours of the cable cars.
“You know, at least 10 people asked me this today,” BT says. Daylight saving time begins, as usual in British Columbia, the Sunday after my visit, but the provincial government, in its wisdom (or lack thereof), has decided that it won’t end and is here to stay.
For a ski resort with a lot of backcountry terrain and the safety hazards that come with early morning hours (e.g. avalanche control), this timing may be important. This won’t affect how things go this season, but it will make operations more difficult on dark December mornings next winter.
“We are working on a plan,” he reassures homeowners. “And once we agree on that, I’ll make sure you know.”
There are other major differences from Australia; for example, the size and scale of mountains. Whistler and Blackcomb together offer 3,306 acres of skiable terrain and 1,609 feet of vertical drop; Perisher’s surface area is 1245 hectares and 335 meters.
Whistler also has great year-round appeal. There is a permanent population of around 14,000 people, and as much as they love skiing and surfing in the winter, they are equally passionate about the golf, hiking, rock climbing and mountain biking the region has to offer in the summer.
“They are outdoor enthusiasts and there are many more women participating in outdoor activities here,” BT notes.
We hit the road again and take a few lifts to get to that mountain terrain. There are glaciers here and with them comes another challenge. Climate change is setting them back, and although there is plenty of snow to ski at this altitude, shrinking glaciers are changing the way ski slopes operate.
So this summer, they’ll be removing the T-bar chairlift that takes skiers and skiers next to the glacier and replacing it with a chairlift with fewer lift towers, meaning more room for skiers and skiers heading downhill.
It’s clear BT has read today’s snow removal report. We board the T-bar and head straight for the newly groomed alpine terrain as we hike above the top station to ski hardcore and ride the chutes ahead.
The skiing is amazing; The snow is cold and dry here and as smooth as you could want. Belinda is an outstanding skier with the grace and technique of a former instructor and the strength gained from years of skiing in Australian conditions.
I’m happy to follow him for a few runs, but he needs to move on to the next appointment before too long.
Just as we were saying goodbye, a teenage skier, in baggy trousers and cool, thick, double-tipped skis, rushes past us. He tries to maneuver over a small bump and loses one of his skis, but he manages to stay upright.
“You may want to get your bindings checked,” BT says.
“They’re okay,” he says, when it’s clear they’re not.
“I hate going over a jump and seeing it happen,” he says, leaving her with that thought.
I don’t think he had the slightest idea who gave him that advice, but if I were him, I’d take that advice.
DETAIL
SKI + ACCOMMODATION
Whistler is about a 90-minute drive from Vancouver on the spectacular Sea to Sky Highway. Epic Australia pass holders (Perisher, Falls Creek and Hotham skiers and lodgers) get 10 days of skiing at Whistler on their pass (check prices and blackout dates at: epicaustraliapass.com.au). Fairmont Chateau Whistler is at the foot of Blackcomb mountain, and the Blackcomb Cable Car is literally outside the back door. Packages at the Fairmont start at $647 ($670) per night. To see whistlemaker.com/au
Five more things to do and see in Whistler
Change the angle of your ski
These are the two big mountains, Whistler and Blackcomb, and Extremely Canadian runs programs to get more skiing and snowboarding in; be it developing skills and techniques to master steeper terrain, exploring the backcountry, or better understanding avalanche and snow safety. You also get removal priority when you are with them. To see extremelycanadali.com
Visit the Audain Museum of Art
On the wall is a quote from author and activist James Baldwin: “The purpose of art is to reveal questions that the answers conceal.” As you ponder this, you might ponder the works of art that the philanthropic Audains parked here; Vancouver had too much going for it, so they built this museum to share it. The building is as breathtaking as some of the artworks. To see audainartmuseum.com
Explore the Squamish Lil’wat Cultural Center
When you arrive on time, you will drum and sit for a short film about two local Indigenous nations, their heritage, and the ways they share this territory. There is a short tour, after which you can wander freely and admire the chefs’ fancy costumes and huge canoes. Local views? “Mountains are gifts from the Creator.” To see slcc.ca
Enjoy après ski at Mallard Lounge
Shop-lined arcades, on-site spa, ski valets to assist you with your skis, it’s worth a stroll through the wood-paneled and plush-carpeted Fairmont Chateau Whistler just to admire this classic mountain hotel. The Mallard Lounge has an après-ski treat: seats to sit on, live music in the background, and wait staff roaming the floor to serve your favorite cocktail. To see whistleler.com
Stop for dinner and drinks
Start your night with a Firework Margarita at Bar Oso (baroso.ca) and you’ll soon be immersed in the buzz of this Spanish-themed bar and restaurant; Tapas and pintxos are flowing. Otherwise, move towards Wild Blue (wildbluerestaurant.com), also for excellent food and service and a fabulous bar.
The author was a guest of Destination British Columbia (supernaturalbc.com) and Tourism Whistler.
Jim Darby is senior producer at Traveler and author of White Gold, a history of Australia’s winter sports.Connect with: X or email.
