New type of Bordeaux wine to gain official status as result of climate pressure | Wine

Bordeaux’s wine industry has historically adapted to consumer habits. In the 1970s the region gravitated towards white, but in the 2000s it became famous for strong oak reds.

It is now a much older form of red, with a name familiar to English speakers: burgundy. With its origins in the 12th century when it was first shipped to Britain, claret quickly became our favorite wine; It has become an unofficial symbol of the burgundy red, which has become increasingly full-bodied in recent years.

The Bordeaux protected designation of origin now officially confirms the color burgundy and links it to the current Bordeaux appellation. However, the bottles available from the 2025 vintage will differ from what many in Britain consider claret; lighter, less tannic and less alcoholic.

Bordeaux has been greatly affected by climate change. Stéphanie Sinoquet, chief executive of the Bordeaux growers association, said some of the impacts were a “positive challenge” as growers turned to non-traditional, heat-tolerant grape varieties. The warmer conditions allowed the grapes to reach “better and more consistent ripeness.”

As a result, ever-increasing alcohol levels were alarming; 15% is now common. According to Jean-Raymond Clarenc, director of the Bordeaux branch of the Grands Chais de France, the new classification is “a strategic response to these environmental changes. By opting for shorter macerations and a profile that values ​​freshness over strength, we can produce balanced, elegant wines, even in warmer vintages. This is a way of turning a climatic challenge into an onological opportunity.”

Wine consumption habits change for various reasons. Warm weather means drinkers are looking for lighter, more efficient bottles; Red wine consumption is falling in both France and England. Experts told the Guardian that lighter, chillable reds have become a must, with claret burgundy designed to be consumed at 8-12C. “Fresher, more fruitful styles are perceived as more relaxed and inclusive,” Sinoquet said, adding that they are more versatile and easier to drink outside of eating.

While lighter burgundy (and even lighter burgundy, dark rosé) never completely disappeared, Bordeaux producers turned to strong reds that won international acclaim and attracted wealthy collectors, and prices soared. “Classic burgundy reds will continue to offer structured, contemporary styles,” Sinoquet said.

Many people cited Bordeaux’s soaring prices as the reason for their struggles. “50 years of economic growth is over, vineyards are being abandoned, we’ve even destroyed a few estates ourselves,” said Tony Laithwaite, founder of wine retailer Laithwaites. He cited the decline in demand in important markets including China, the decline in sales in France and the shift towards white wine as examples. “Bordeaux’s ostentatious and expensive image no longer suits these times when everyone is struggling.”

According to sommelier and wine consultant Jonathan Kleeman, millennials are less likely to collect expensive wines than previous generations, preferring ready-to-drink wines. “The new category will be interesting,” Kleeman said. “It actually brings back the old days. Bordeaux used to not be the great wines it is today. It actually brings back an old English term.”

Could it confuse drinkers? “Not really, these wines are aimed at the younger generation who don’t use the word ‘burgundy’ very much,” he said. Kleeman cited other vintage wines that are now back in fashion: petillant natural or “pet-nat”, a traditional type of sparkling wine, for the use of amphorae, ceramic storage containers popular among natural wine producers. “This could be a very good move, and ‘in the know’ people might enjoy the irony of calling it ‘burgundy’.”

Today, Burgundy is considered the most expensive wine region in the world. Will burgundy match better with pinot noir reds? “I don’t think so,” said sommelier Tom Claxton. “I think the similarities would be a lighter body, but I would expect these to be more fun or ‘fun’ wines.”