Bar Carnation, Carlton North – The Age Good Food Guide review

Talk about a hard act to follow. Gerald’s Bar 1.0 was officially completed, but the universe was quickly rebalanced. You could call it a stripped-down version of its bigger sibling, Carnation Canteen: The menu is shorter and more direct, but it’s written with the same quality of ingredients, seasonings, sauces and composition that earned its big sibling a fervent fanbase.

Fritto misto uses the best seafood available that day, frying it to a light and delicious crispness. Vitello tonnato is a classic in every respect, the veal tender, the sauce tangy and a meticulous example of form. You can order the steak fries just for the diane sauce; Imagine the best sauces enhanced with acid, mustard and pure flavor.

The service is wonderful in an indescribable, relaxed way that mimics a carefree spirit but is actually backed by true professionalism. There’s also a ripper wine list, and the staff will happily guide you as you gauge exactly what kind of night you want to have. Gerald has moved on but this is a worthy successor.

Good Food reviews are booked anonymously and independently paid. A restaurant cannot pay for a review or inclusion on a list. Good Food Guide.