Kebabs, biryani and much more in Indian city on Unesco culinary list

Mouth-watering kebabs, fragrant biryani and whipped cloud-like desserts.

The north Indian city of Lucknow has always been a food lover’s paradise, with locals and visitors raving about its cuisine.

Last month Unesco made this a City of Creative Gastronomy – adds it to the elite list of global cities and sparks hope that it will shine a light on Lucknow’s amazing food. With this title, he joins a global network. 408 cities It is committed to promoting “creativity as a driver of sustainable urban development” in more than 100 countries.

Tim Curtis, director and representative of the Unesco Regional Office for South Asia, said this recognition “is a testament to our deep-rooted culinary traditions and vibrant food ecosystem”.

“It honors the city’s rich cultural heritage while opening new avenues for international cooperation,” he added.

Lucknow becomes only the second Indian city to find a place in this coveted list of 70 cities worldwide, after Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019.

This hometown accolade comes as no surprise to residents or food lovers; many echo celebrity chef Ranveer Brar’s comment: “Better late than never. Should have come sooner.”

With its recognition by Unesco, my beloved, chaotic, eclectic city – the capital of India’s most populous state, Uttar Pradesh – has finally come into the limelight for what has always defined its soul: passion for food.

Madhavi Kuckreja, founder of Sanatkada Trust, which is spearheading the Lucknow Kitchens project, told the BBC that it is the slow pace and the time taken to cook the food that gives the city’s food its distinct flavour.

“‘What to cook, how to cook it?’ It’s a conversation that goes on in most homes from the moment they wake up until they go to bed. “And you are actually judged by the quality of the food that comes out of your kitchen,” he says.

But this focus on food is not new, and many of the dishes that define the city’s cuisine have been around for hundreds of years.

The City of Nawabs – popularly called after the wealthy Muslim rulers of the 18th and 19th centuries – is known for its melt-in-your-mouth kebabs and a different take on biryani that is created, evolved and taken to sublime levels in its kitchens.

These royal kitchens were centers of culinary innovation, blending Persian and local Indian styles to create what became Awadh cuisine (as the region was then known).

Lucknow’s most famous kebabs were made during this period. The story goes that the mutton galouti kebabs that define the city among visitors were created to feed an aging nawab who had lost his teeth. His cooks minced the meat with papaya, saffron and spices and made it so thin and silky that there was no need to chew it.

But perhaps the greatest contribution of Awadh cooks was the slow cooking Dum pukht technique, in which food is cooked over low heat, with the lid of the pot tightly covered with batter.

It became popular during the reign of Nawab Asaf-ud-Daulah in the 18th century; The region was in the grip of famine, and he started a work-for-food program. Large cauldrons containing rice, vegetables, meat and spices were covered to make one-dish meals.

The story goes that the Nawab caught the scent of the aromas emanating from the pots, requested a taste, and the Dum technique was officially adopted in their kitchen.

The technique was revived and commercially popularized in modern India by the late chef Imtiaz Kureshi, a master of Awadhi cuisine and known as the force behind today’s iconic Delhi restaurants Bukhara and Dum Pukht. List of Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants.

Apart from the obvious kebabs and biryani, chefs have also created a repertoire of dishes that includes kormas (curries), sheermal (saffron flatbread) and shahi tukda (bread pudding).

But Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryanis; The region is also a paradise for vegetarians.

The traditional and strictly vegetarian cuisine of the local Baniya community not only celebrates seasonal produce but also introduces the city to unique street food such as carefully selected Indian sweets and desserts and chaat – spicy, tangy fried snacks.

On almost every corner there are small shops and kiosks, little-known hidden gems popular with locals.

In downtown Hazratganj, large crowds start milling around the Sharmaji Tea Stall from 5am onwards to grab a steaming cup of milky masala chai served in clay mugs along with soft buns lathered with hand-churned white butter.

Morning walkers, political strategists and journalists gather around this nondescript shabby shack, which has been in operation since 1949 and has now become a tourist attraction.

For breakfast, you can go to Netram, a simple place located in the old city area of ​​Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after its founding in 1880, the place is still very popular for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy dessert made from deep-fried fermented dough and soaked in sugar syrup).

The sixth generation owners – father Anmol Agarwal and sons Anoop and Pranshu – continue to preserve the process and craftsmanship behind each recipe. An automobile engineer by training, Pranshu is passionate about his heritage. “It’s in my blood. There’s nothing else I’d rather do,” he says.

The city also offers unique seasonal delicacies such as makkhan malai, a unique cloud-like dessert in winter. The process of doing this is scientific and complex. The cook churns the milk by hand and leaves it outside at night to be exposed to the dew, which gives the milk its incredible frothy texture.

On cold mornings, street vendors can be seen queuing up in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. However, many people say that their children do not want to learn art.

Chef Brar, himself a native of Lucknow and an undisputed advocate of his food, has often said that the city’s rich food heritage places it at the top of the Indian street food experience heap. But the real value of Unesco recognition will only be realized if Lucknow raises awareness about lesser-known restaurants, he says.

Ms. Kukreja says every dish in Lucknow tells a story shaped by generations of food businesses, from humble street carts to bustling restaurants to preserved family recipes.

He hopes the international acclaim will encourage more people around the world to learn these stories and visit the city to taste the flavors of Lucknow.