The Old Sailor Myth Satellites Actually Confirmed Is True

Sailors have long told stories about giant waves emerging from anywhere in the ocean and threatening to completely destroy ships. Contrary to sailors’ claims, stray waves were considered scientifically unrealistic. It turns out that the size of the waves is distributed in a bell curve shape, with a few small waves, many medium-sized waves, and a few large waves. Now satellite data has captured evidence of waves at the extreme end of this bell curve, potentially reaching heights of 100 feet. Analysis of these data sheds light on the mysteries of our oceans. All the world’s oceans may have once been green.

In 2024, a storm in the Pacific Ocean likely caused a wave as high as 35 meters. Data on the wave was collected from satellites that monitor ocean activity. Satellites scan the ocean surface from space, mapping wave heights over large areas. This transformed stray waves from after-the-fact sailor stories into documented activities that could be analysed, measured and catalogued. This giant wave sheds light on the fact that such mega-waves can form without hurricane conditions and illuminates how unpredictable ocean sailing really is.

Read more: 9 Lightning Myths You Should Stop Believing (And Which Are Actually True)

Using satellites to find fake waves

A study was conducted to see how observations and data from satellites could measure rogue waves. Earth, Atmospheric and Planetary Sciences. This is not unlike the work done to understand giant tsunamis. The research used the Surface Water and Ocean Topography (SWOT) mission, a satellite system designed to map the elevation of Earth’s water surfaces in detail. The study tracked ocean waves moving away from the storm, detailing their height and how they diminished as they traveled.

Satellite data was used to analyze ocean storms in 2023 and 2024. One such storm sent waves across the Pacific Ocean, pummeling coastlines from Canada to Peru and even affecting big-wave surfing in Hawaii. For this storm, satellites measured the highest waves they had ever recorded.

These observations have revealed new insights into the behavior of the ocean’s largest waves, including rogue waves, or megawaves. Using SWOT, the research showed how dominant waves can fuel much longer, stronger waves that can unexpectedly splash onto ships far from the storm center. The study suggested that understanding such waves and what creates them could help keep sailors safe, improve infrastructure for coastlines at risk, and even compare data to seismic activity in the region to better understand how the two mix.

Understanding how false waves form

This is not the only study that aims to expand our understanding and approach to spurious waves. An 18-year study was published Scientific Reports He analyzed high-frequency laser measurements of ocean waves collected on the Ekofisk platform in the North Sea. It split the data into more than 27,000 half-hour snapshots of ocean activity. This approach allowed the team to take local ocean conditions into account and better observe how rogue waves form. The team discovered that rogue waves are created when multiple waves come together, unlike what other theories suggest.

During this time, ocean storms Borgny and Andrea were studied, especially Andrea, which had erratic wave formation. The team found that the shape of the waves, rather than the elements of a severe storm that typically has large high-energy waves, was a better predictor of rogue waves. Many waves naturally develop sharper crests and shallower troughs, and this shape helps multiple waves combine to briefly form much larger waves. Based on this, they developed a new statistical model to predict the probability of rogue waves occurring.

Stray waves have been a source of fear for sailors who worry about their ships being lost in the ocean and in time, like the lost ship in Antarctica. There is now a better understanding of ocean conditions and the role they play in wave formation. With this data, perhaps rogue waves can one day be accurately predicted and more comprehensively understood.

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