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When Kumbh Mela comes to God’s Own Country in poll season

Tirunavaya: Early on Saturday morning, an organizer walked towards the Bharathapuzha riverbed to check on preparations billed as Kerala’s answer to the Kumbh Mela. He found only three swamis wandering around and a few men around them. One of the main visiting holy men from the north was nowhere to be seen and had reportedly fallen asleep after days of exhausting travel.

The organizer, speaking on condition of anonymity, told himself this wasn’t exactly what large religious demonstrations should turn out to be.

At the center of this evolving initiative is Swami Anandavanam Bharathi, Mahamandaleshwar (a senior spiritual leader) of the Juna Akhara, one of the most influential monastic orders associated with the Kumbh Mela. But before saffron robes, there were red flags. The Swami was P Salil, once the fiery leader of the Students Federation of India at Kerala Varma College in Thrissur and famous for his oratory skills. His old comrades still joke that if he had not replaced Marx with mantras, he would probably have been one of the best leaders of the CPI(M) by now. Whether it was revolution or ritual, the man knew how to work the crowd.

After journalism school, Salil worked briefly as a reporter and left Kerala for the Himalayas. There is occasional heartbreak and unrequited love, but she now sees it as incidental and those around her follow suit in not dwelling on it. He spent his years on the ghats of the Ganges, especially around Varanasi and Kashi, where he stood out for his youth, fluency and fluency in Hindi and southern languages. He became the go-to person for southern pilgrims to the Kumbh Melas, coordinating the logistics and escorting prominent figures. His rise as Mahamandaleshwar brought national visibility and official authority.

When he returned to Kerala with his new title, he was struggling with what to do next. For a while, he focused on the encroachment of temple lands and described all this as a mission to “awaken Hindu consciousness” in the state.


Stop Order for Temporary Bridge
After his elevation, he traveled around Kerala and received congratulations in many centres. One stop was Tirunavaya, where the Kumbh Mela project found him. “They contacted me to ask if it could be done as a larger event. I agreed,” he said. “Honestly, I didn’t know how this would become so big or controversial.”
When Swami was first invited, he envisioned something on the scale of an ordinary temple festival. He had years of experience organizing pilgrimages to the Kumbh Mela in the north and knew exactly what preparations events of this scale required: pandals, food, bio-toilets, full logistics. However, the project grew like a snowball beyond anyone’s control. Something planned with a budget of several lakhs turned out to be a crore costly affair. The pandals are erected on loan. Bio toilets are arranged for pre-payment only. Free meals for thousands of people a day for about a month will turn into serious money. Unpaid invoices are increasing day by day. At one point the swami laughed that he might have to flee back to the Himalayas once the incident was over. A cook has been hired to manage the free meals, but no one is sure how many people will show up and the cook is unhappy with the uncertainty.

And last week everything exploded. Permission to build a temporary bridge over the river was requested two months ago. Just when everything seemed set, local authorities issued a cease-and-desist order, citing unauthorized construction and environmental violations in the riverbed. Such memos are rare in such cases, where compromises are often made quietly to avoid public confrontation.

This time the conflict came to light and what happened next explains how pan-Indian religious projects reached Kerala.

The cease-and-desist note went viral. Some national television channels framed this as Hindu practices being threatened. Hindutva groups started taking action. Influencers started searching about paid collaborations. Small donations started flowing into Swami’s Google Pay account, ten to fifty rupees at a time; many were accompanied by messages invoking Ram.

But the reaction on the ground looked completely different. District Muslim League legislator K Moideen supported the incident and criticized the stop note, arguing that the issue could be resolved by talking. The communist state government quietly helped turn things around after organizers contacted P Sasi, the chief minister’s political secretary, who assured them of assistance after receiving an intelligence report indicating the potential for large crowds. Informal permission was conveyed and work began again.

To the surprise of the organisers, the state-run KSRTC bus service told them that they would run special services from each depot to the site. Muslim traders in nearby markets stocked festive items worth lakhs of rupees. Everything is ready to welcome the festival, except perhaps the clash some people are expecting between Hindutva forces and others.

Swami seems conscious of preventing the incident from being absorbed into the Hindutva ecosystem. In Kerala, many temple organizations remain cautious about such alignment, fearing political ramifications and loss of autonomy. A media pundit working at the event summed up the dynamic by harkening back to an old EMS Namboodiripad formulation from the early 1960s, when the communist leader ensured that the Indian unit stayed away from both the Soviet Union and China during partition: it’s neither ours nor theirs.

free promotion
Thanks to the discussions, the publicity was huge and free; This was helpful, organizers admit, but it also created headaches. Emotionally charged supporters with little media experience may escalate the situation. Organizers believe that if the police intervene in the bridge area, things could spiral and pave the way for mobilization policies.

One of the most striking aspects of this episode is the dissonance between the conversations in the Delhi television studios and what is happening on the ground. In prime-time news, the event is easily framed as a massive Hindutva mobilization in Kerala and Malappuram. But in reality it seems like an all-hands event, brought together by habit, familiarity and mutual interest rather than ideology.

Malappuram is routinely described as a Muslim-majority area, but Tirunavaya lies amidst a dense cluster of Hindu temples lining the riverbank, often barely a kilometer apart. The local economy reflects this overlap.

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