How to Cook Thanksgiving Turkey

This video and article is part of Cooking 101our kitchen basics series. Each episode covers a different technique, with tips and recipes from expert guest hosts that will set you up for success.

There are countless ways to cook a Thanksgiving turkey, and I’ve probably tried them all. I tossed, grilled and spread. I basted it with wet brine, butter, and chile. But with each new recipe I try, I become convinced that the simpler it is, the better the bird will be and the happier the cook will be.

I tested nearly a dozen versions and stripped the process down to its essentials to come up with an effortless recipe for a crispy, golden crust and juicy, well-seasoned meat. The result is a recipe that is simple enough to memorize and make over and over again. The hardest part is preparing the bird for brining, but everything is arranged for the most delicious and flawless bird possible, the perfect Thanksgiving turkey.

Step 1: Buy the Bird

When to Buy?

A week before Thanksgiving, or even earlier, start thinking about buying your turkey—if most turkeys are sold frozen and you’ll need a few days to thaw in the refrigerator. If you’re purchasing a fresh turkey, buy it three to five days before Thanksgiving to give yourself enough time to brine.

How Much to Buy

Plan on 1 to 1 ½ pounds of turkey per person. It’s easier to roast a smaller (10- to 12-pound) bird than to wrestle a 20-pound bird, so if you’re feeding a crowd, it may be wisest to roast a small turkey with some of its parts on the side, such as the breast, thigh, or a combination of these.

Understanding Labels

There are many options for purchasing a turkey. Here’s a breakdown of what’s on offer.

Organic: These birds were fed an organic, pesticide-free vegetarian diet. They had access to open space and were never given antibiotics.

Heritage: Compared to standard supermarket breeds, heritage birds more closely resemble their wild turkey ancestors and generally take longer to reach maturity. They tend to have a higher percentage of dark flesh and a richer, more savory flavor.

Free-range/pasture-raised: These turkeys had access to open space. Depending on the farm, they may also have been able to forage for some of their food.

All natural: Birds labeled as natural are not treated with preservatives or any artificial or synthetic ingredients.

Kosher: Raised and slaughtered under rabbinic supervision in accordance with Jewish dietary laws, these birds are also salted (all kosher meat is salted). If you’re using a kosher turkey, you can skip the salt in the dry brine altogether and rub the bird with pepper and aromatics before letting it dry in the refrigerator. Or for a very spicy bird, sprinkle lightly with salt, but be careful not to overdo it.

Self basting: These birds were injected with a saline solution (sometimes with added oil, preservatives, and flavorings) to make them more juicy. But instead of buying one of these, a standard dry-brined bird works just as well and gives you control over what you add.

Without hormones: Poultry is never given hormones, so if you see this on the label, it’s a marketing tactic.

Step 2: Assemble Tools

What You Need

• Frying pan with rack for cooking

• Meat thermometer to test doneness

• Sheet pan for dry brining in the refrigerator

• Micro plane for grating garlic and peeling citrus fruits

• Dish towels to wipe up the inevitable drips

What Don’t You Do?

Step 3: Prepare the turkey

If your turkey is frozen, you need to thaw it thoroughly in its packaging in the refrigerator before cooking. Allow 24 hours of defrosting for every four to five poundsThis means it will take about three days to defrost a 12-pound bird. And you can dry brine the bird while it’s partially frozen, but that’s not ideal. The skin won’t get as dry or crunchy.

Once thawed, unwrap your bird, then poke around to find its neck and bag of giblets, which are usually hidden inside (sometimes under the neck flap), so check carefully. Reserve the gizzard and heart to make broth, and fry the livers in a little olive oil with a sprig of rosemary or thyme if you have them. It’s the perfect snack served on garlic toast. I like to roast the neck alongside the bird, but you can add that to the pot as well.

Step 4: Add Dry Brine

Do not rinse your turkey, pat all over with a paper towel before scrubbing with dry salt water. (For the most basic dry brine, you can stick to just using salt and maybe some pepper. Or amp up the flavor by adding garlic, herbs, spices, citrus zest, paprika, or other aromatics.) This method is easier and less cumbersome than dipping a whole turkey in a wet brine, and it yields a crispier crust. However, if you want to wet brine your bird, here is a recipe.

If you don’t mind getting closer to your turkey, use your hands to carefully separate the skin from the breast and thighs and rub the brine directly onto the meat. This completely optional step makes a small difference but is not crucial to the outcome. If you are going to fry the neck, salt it too.

Place the salted turkey breast side down on a tray, preferably on a rack so air can circulate underneath, and refrigerate, uncovered, for at least 12 hours, up to three days. Halfway through the brining process, turn the turkey over, breast side up. This helps distribute the brine evenly.

Take the bird out of the refrigerator an hour before roasting and let it come to room temperature.

Step 5: Roast the Turkey

To roast, place the turkey neck (if using) in the bottom of the roasting pan, then add the wine, broth, and aromatics. Place a rack inside the pan and place the turkey on top. Stuff the turkey cavity with herbs, onion and garlic, if desired, then brush the bird with oil or melted butter.

Start roasting over high heat to add some color to the skin, then lower the heat and continue cooking for 1 ½ to 3 ½ hours, depending on the size of your bird. You don’t need to baste, this slows down the roasting process and can cause the skin to be soggy.

Begin taking the turkey’s temperature about 15 minutes before you think it can be done. To check the temperature, insert the probe into the thickest part of the thigh, being careful not to touch any bones. I like to check both hips to make sure. Don’t worry if the meat looks a little pinkish; Some turkeys have pinker meat than others and retain that color even when cooked. If you see red, continue roasting.

It is done when it reaches 155 degrees on the instant read thermometer. (It will reach the USDA recommended 165 degrees when rested.)

Step 6: Listen and Vote

Let the turkey rest, loosely covered with foil, for 20 to 30 minutes before carving. Save the pan drippings to add to sauce or any broth you make from the carcass. Or, if you’re not serving sauce, you can spoon the drippings directly onto the meat for extra moisture and flavor.

Then do all your carving in the kitchen rather than at the table, which can get very messy. You’ll need a sharp knife, a cutting board, and kitchen towels for any overflowing juices.

First, cut off the legs and wings of the carcass. Then, use your knife to cut the breast meat, following the breastbone. Once you’ve cut the bird into pieces, it will be easier to debone the hips and slice off the breast. Leave the drumsticks and wings on the bone to serve.

But when it comes to turkey carving techniques, it’s easier to show than tell. See the video below for best practices.

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