Giving Hyderabadi Desserts The Same Reverence as Biryani
There’s something quite magical about a room filled with the scent of almonds, ghee and saffron. At the Marriott Executive Apartments in Hyderabad’s Nanakramguda, this aroma surrounded guests like a silk dupatta – delicate, complex and steeped in history. This evening was a celebration of stories told not with words, but with the poetry of sweets.
Naina Roshan Khundmeri, manager of Dakni Sweet Treats, was at the center of it all and said with quiet pride: “These recipes have been whispered for generations. We just make sure they are not forgotten.” Founded in 1994, Dakni has always carried the spirit of royal cuisine in its copper pans and marzipans; This is an effort to give Hyderabadi desserts the same respect that the city’s biryani enjoys.
In this special masterclass organized in collaboration with Sangat, a cultural initiative celebrating the art and heritage of Dakni, three iconic confections were brought to life: Badam ki Jali, Ashrafi and Badam Khund. Each dessert carries a slice of Hyderabad’s layered history; It reminds us of the times when kitchens were laboratories of art and women were the guardians of taste, form and refinement.
The first act of the evening belonged to Badam ki Jali, that intricate almond lattice that once graced festive plates in royal homes. Chef Anjum, Naina’s mother, moved skillfully and her hands remembered what time had almost tried to erase. Almonds and cashews were boiled, peeled, ground into a silky paste, and then kneaded into hot dough.
In came the ancient chapa, a small steel cutter used for generations. With delicate precision, she pressed it into the dough, shaping it into flowers and motifs, then covered it with edible silver foil. What emerged was much more than a dessert; it was a work of art.
Next came the gold disc Ashrafi, named after the royal coins of the Deccan and inspired by the Rose Ashrafi flower. Its saffron-enriched dough glistened with quiet richness. When pressed between engraved coin dies, it revealed twin impressions, a dessert born of history and generosity. Naina smiled, “Food here was never just about food.” “It was an expression of culture and elegance.”
The last delicacy, Badam Khund, an intense almond and saffron dessert, reflected the indulgence of weddings and grand banquets. It was a symbol of royal hospitality when served after Biryani. In Nizami kitchens, this was more than just dessert; it was a gesture of warmth and strength. Watching Chef Anjum mix, fold and shape the dessert felt as if you had learned a family secret carefully guarded and lovingly shared.
Dakni’s story is essentially a woman’s story. Mothers and daughters who not only cook but also create. From whispered instructions and recipes that live in experienced hands. Desserts that travel through time, from gilded palaces to modern kitchens, without losing their soul.
