How India’s Weaving Ecosystem Is Quietly Transforming
On the occasion of Vijayalakshmi Silks completing 105 years, DC spoke to managing partners Rohith C Ramesh and Dhiren C Ashok about legacy, craft and change. From handloom traditions to modern retail shifts, the duo reflects on what it takes to keep a centuries-old practice current and deeply personal.
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Question: If you had been doing something for over 100 years, how good would you be at it?
A: We believe handloom is our strength. This is not something we look at just from a financial perspective. We are passionate about it, almost like the tourists who are still discovering it. We often say that we are like test cricketers, we don’t want to give it up. Handlooms are very close to us and we feel a great responsibility to keep them alive after all these years. For us, it has never been just about selling. When a customer walks in, we don’t immediately think of a transaction. First we think about how to connect. We try to understand their situation, their story, and make them feel comfortable. This approach has stayed with us for decades. Therefore, our relationships with our customers are personal, not commercial.
Q: How much time does a typical customer spend in the store?
A: On average a customer spends at least an hour and a half. And this time is important. Choosing a sari is not a quick decision. It is a process. Every client approaches the issue differently. They take time to explore, compare and think. A sari is not just another purchase. It carries emotion. It might be something someone buys once a year or for a very special moment. Therefore, experience is as important as the product. The journey from weaving to final purchase carries a certain emotion, and we believe customers feel it too.
Q: How have your conversations with weavers, from cocoon to finished product, changed over the years?
A: The relationship with the weavers developed over time. Today, we are more aware of the challenges they face, especially when it comes to fluctuations in raw materials. We also recognize that not all weavers work the same way. While some are open to experimenting and growing, others prefer to stick with what they know best. We work with both. There is no fixed expectation that everyone should fit in the same way. The important thing is mutual understanding. We have also seen that over time, weavers have become more technologically savvy. Now even those living in smaller villages can make video calls easily. The younger generation is entering this field and organizing themselves better, sometimes even setting up structured weaving units. So the ecosystem is changing and we are adapting.
Question: What has changed for you over the years and what has stayed the same?
A: Interestingly enough, many things have stayed the same. Our core practices, the way we control quality, the discipline we follow, all these remain unchanged. What has changed is the customer and how we reach them. Today we have a strong online presence. We started using social media very recently, but it has grown rapidly. Customers actively engage with us and we even see regular online transactions. At the same time, we continue to focus on exhibiting our work without hesitation. Inspiration is part of all creative fields, and we see it as the motivation to drive innovation.
Q: Are there any designs that are distinctly Vijayalakshmi?
A: Yes, and that’s because of how closely we are involved in production. We work on different sets of weavings and most of what we create is custom. Over time, some designs and combinations became closely associated with us. We often know exactly what inspired a particular piece, whether it’s a color the customer likes or a pattern we’ve developed further. This hands-on involvement helps us maintain a clear identity.
Q: Do buyers today value craftsmanship more than aesthetics?
A: There is definitely a shift towards value. Today’s customers are more aware of the effort that goes into a sari. They appreciate the techniques, details and craftsmanship behind it. This awareness has increased because information is now more accessible. Social media plays a big role in this. People are coming with more information and this is changing the way they make choices.
Question: Does heritage silk develop organically or is it consciously reinvented?
A: It is largely self-developing. Some things remain timeless. We have seen many trends come and go, but heritage designs continue to hold their place. At the same time, interest in vintage styles is increasing again. Customers are now actively searching for them. So when innovation happens, it happens alongside a strong respect for what exists.
Question: Tell us about your collaboration with the Mysuru Royal Family.
A: This association seemed very natural to me. There was already a long-standing relationship. Members of the Royal Family have been our customers for years. So when we explored a collaboration, it didn’t feel new or forced. There was comfort and familiarity on both sides that made the process seamless. This historic collaboration with the Royal Family of Mysore brings together two enduring legacies of craftsmanship and patronage. Leveraging exclusive access to royal heirloom saris, Vijayalakshmi Silks presents 105 Royal Edits, a contemporary collection inspired by these archival pieces, bridging the past and present and re-centering the living craft within modern desire.
Question: You have customers from all segments of society. Can you share a few names?
A: Over the years, we have had the opportunity to serve many well-known names. Aishwarya Rai, Manisha Koirala and Hema Malini have all been associated with us. Recently Rashmika Mandanna also chose pieces from our collection. There were also moments when a sari, like the cotton Kanchi worn at a wedding, attracted unexpected attention. It showed us how even understated choices can make a powerful impression today.
Question: Is the regional identity in silk strengthening or becoming more diluted?
A: It’s getting stronger, but it’s also reaching new audiences. Many traditional silks are still largely purchased in their own regions, but their appeal is growing across the country. Today you see cultural exchanges happening more openly. For example, weddings in the north adopt South Indian elements. This reflects a blending of traditions rather than a dilution.
Question: Is the future of silk about preservation or reinterpretation?
A: It should be both. Preserving the craft is important, but adapting to changing preferences is just as important. We tried techniques like combining the look of Kanchi with the lightness of Kota Doria. Such innovations come from listening to what younger customers are looking for. The idea is to keep the essence intact while making it relevant.
Q: How do you see online and offline sales evolving?
A: Although the Internet is still a small part of our business, it is growing steadily. We aim to expand this further in the coming years. At the same time, the in-store experience remains important. We continue to invest in physical spaces and plan to expand with new stores. Growth for us has always been gradual and organic, and this approach continues now.
