Ralph Lauren bridges generations with menswear tie-up in Milan | Milan fashion week

At his second standalone menswear show in Milan, Ralph Lauren returned to the accessory that launched his empire in 1967: ties.

Fine silk ties with subtle sinuous prints were neatly knotted and used as the finishing touch on elegant pinstripe suits; Brighter printed or striped ties were worn turned, as ties visible under knitwear and rugby shirts.

Elsewhere, ties were used instead of belts; others came wrapped in bags, and even shoes were tied with the tops of espadrille shoes, consisting of laces spliced ​​together.

For the American fashion house that has become the catnip of Gen Z, focusing on ties in its Friday night show was a masterful way to appeal to this younger group without alienating its existing older customers, who have recently discovered both the brand and the accessory for the first time, but many of whom, like Lauren, are octogenarians and have been wearing ties since day one.

While other major players in the fashion industry continue to grapple with the widespread stagnation in high-end luxury, Ralph Lauren is enjoying a renaissance. In May CEO Patrice Louvet announced that sales had risen 15% in the last financial year, with revenue exceeding $8bn (£6bn) for the first time in the company’s history.

While womenswear has been the main focus of this growth, the brand’s decision to join the men’s fashion week lineup in Milan suggests that more momentum can be found in menswear as well. The show, which kicked off Milan fashion week on Friday night, combined elegant brand Purple with the more accessible brand Polo, which focuses on college-style classics.

Part of Lauren’s magic is world-building, and this time she transported her guests back to the golden age of Italian sport. In the courtyard of Lauren’s Milan headquarters, a sprawling palace in the capital that she bought in 1999, a gleaming 1920s mahogany speedboat greeted guests including actors Tom Hiddleston and Colman Domingo and grand prix record holder Lewis Hamilton.

Sea salt white textured knits, teal striped shirts and reversible butter-soft leather jackets with cashmere lining captured the fantasy vibe of speeding around Lake Como. Reflective racer sunglasses, deck shoes, and soft tote bags that can be easily stowed aboard the boat added a purposeful touch.

Then came the Polo collection, which Lauren described in the show notes as “a next-generation vision of American prep.” From the perspective of TikTok fashion fans, this was luxury. For them, much of this model’s aspirational appeal lies in its style, which is easy to pick up when rummaging through second-hand platforms and shops.

Camouflage pants were worn loose and loose; colorful checkered shirts were open at the top; Rugby shirts were teamed with floral and crossbones motifs, while neat blazers clashed with visible repairs created using dye-flecked denim or sashiko embroidery.