The sandwich and 90s Westraliana rule this tiny Tuart Hill bakery
Strollio’s Lunch
Oven$
The life of a sourdough starter is an unstable one.
One moment your owner is feeding you every day and (over)sharing stories about you online. The next step you turn into a mysterious jar at the back of the refrigerator.
Of all the disasters the sourdough community has faced, these have been few
It’s as disastrous as 2020’s Great Perth Starter Dry-up: an extinction event triggered by the easing of COVID restrictions and the reopening of restaurants, cafes and bars almost exactly six years ago.
While the great reawakening of hospitality is great news for people,
It’s the beginning of the end for Clint Yeastwoods, Jane Doughs and other scrappy sourdough starters conceived during lockdown.
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But for some, cooking was never just a pandemic escape, as major studies have proven.
Neighborhood bread shops that have opened since COVID. Think Teeter in the East
Perth; Hunter’s Bread in Bicton; plus the wonderful Bred Co. in Albany. (Even North Beach’s world-famous Maestro Pizza started as a quarantine project.) Meanwhile, the arrival of Strollio’s Luncheonette in mid-2024 has signaled Tuart Hill’s entry into the conversation.
Don’t immediately get the impression that Strollio is a bakery.
As the name suggests, Strollio’s is modeled after neighborhood lunch bars and delis of the ’90s: molded plastic chairs, glass block windows, pantry staples and all. Designer, clothing manufacturer and co-owner of Strollio’s, Hannah Budge, appreciates that even though it’s only two years old, the store looks and feels like it’s been there for decades.
There’s a similar spirit of yesteryear on the menu, starting with nostalgic baked goods. Plush donuts are available as plump rings glazed or rolled in cinnamon sugar; or plump bomboloni-like discs bulging with zingy lemon curd, pale gooey egg pudding, and other classic fillings. (And I spell “goo” in a good way.)
Vegemite, kimchi and jalapenos are the swirling stars of the cheesy, loose-sleeved savory rolls.
Max Veenhuyzen
Of course, there are sandwiches, too, and they’re all made with bread baked in Nathan Alexander’s shop. Alexander, who used to work at Bagel O’s and North Street Store, is now a partner at Budge, co-owner of Strollio’s, and the driving force behind all the flour-based treats in the cabinet.
Sometimes the bread in the sandwich plays the leading role. Well polished planks
Focuses bursting with small air bubbles are as interesting as silky ones.
stracciatella and the bedrock of mortadella in which they are cradled. The house white loaf has a chewiness and flavor that makes you think there’s more than just yeast under the hood. Enjoy it on-site with a light egg sandwich or on toast, crunchy with lettuce, then take a loaf home so you can study it more in-depth.
Other times, bread plays more of a supporting role.
When toasted, the whole wheat and rye loaf forms a thin, crispy scaffold for a bright, unusually elegant Reuben: the salty richness of very good bacon is balanced by the floral scent of coriander seeds; the sour crunch of sauerkraut; plus the bite of horseradish in homemade Russian dressing.
Seasonal and Sunday specials will come and go. Market lines will change. Different independent food and culture publications are published on magazine shelves in rotation. Alexander and his team are constantly experimenting.
When I went to the kitchen to check the accuracy of this review, I saw a muslin-lined jar of a taupe-coloured liquid on the shelf. The label on the jar said “Nathan”. Looks like someone is about to become the proud father of a new sourdough starter.
Down
Atmosphere: A nostalgic bakery-café that nails Hypercolors to the uprights
Dishes to use: cheese and jalapeno slider ($4.50), straccia-della focaccia ($15), Reuben sandwich ($18).
Beverages: a full range of modern coffee options (bulk brew, alternative milks) and a fridge stocked with individual craft beverages
Cost: Approximately $40 for two, excluding drinks and produce
Good Food reviews are booked anonymously and independently paid. A restaurant cannot pay for a review or inclusion on a list. Good Food Guide.
Max Veenhuyzen is a journalist and photographer who has been writing about food, drink and travel in national and international publications for over 20 years. He reviews restaurants for the Good Food Guide.
