Toil behind sweet success of ‘Atreyapuram Putharekulu’ from A.P.

The sweet aroma of traditional ‘nethi putharekulu’ (paper sweet), Dr. BR Ambedkar soars in Atreyapuram mandal in Konaseema district. In villages like Atreyapuram, Ryali, Vasantawada, Bobbarlanka, Lolla, Velcheru and others, women making melt-in-your-mouth sweets in small huts and shacks next to their homes are a common sight, welcoming visitors with hoardings titled ‘nethi putharekulu ammabadunu’ (meaning ‘ghee putharekulu is sold here’).

Women who were busy making ‘Atreyapuram Putharekulu’, which received the GI (Geographical Indication) tag two years ago, expressed their pride in preserving the tradition, saying, “No festival or celebration can be complete without our putharekulu on the plate. The ‘Kotha pellikoduku’ (groom) also has to taste ‘nethi putharekulu’ on his first visit to the bride’s house.”

Also read: How to prepare Atreyapuram Pootharekulu dessert?

Almost one lakh families are indirectly linked to the business. It includes women who prepare this delicious dish, farmers who provide essential ingredients like rice, ghee, oil, sugar, jaggery and dry fruits like almonds, cashews and other nuts. The network also includes chocolate powder sellers, sweet box and packaging material manufacturers, sticker printers and trade facilitators.

A few years ago, women were preparing putharekulu at home and selling it in small packages. Entrepreneur Chennam Suryavathi from Atreyapuram said that today the craft has turned into a thriving sector and is the source of income for more than a hundred thousand families.

“Staying at home, we earn around 1,000 Indian rupees a day by making these thin wafer desserts. The main profession here is ‘Putharekula tayari’ (putharekulu making) and men help women in preparing the sweets. Thousands of families are dependent on this profession whose legacy goes back centuries,” said sweet maker Kadali Durga Prasanna.

The makers believe that this culinary art is inspired by Dr. BR Ambedkar Konaseema provides livelihood to families in East Godavari, West Godavari, Eluru, Krishna and other districts in the state, he said.

“We prepare putharekulu by applying oil to thin rice papers and then add sugar or jaggery, chopped almonds, pistachios and cashews and wrap it in another rice paper. Its taste depends on the quality of oil, nuts and other ingredients,” said Veeramallu Lakshmi, maker of Putharekulu.

Saying that my family has been in this business for over seven decades, Ms. Suryavathi added: “When I was a child, I used to help my mother make these paper sweets at home. Now, I have set up a stall and have been making putharekulu for the last 35 years.” Approximately 15 workers work in his shop.

holiday request

The demand for putharekulu is high during the festive season, especially around Deepavali, Christmas, New Year and Sankranthi. “We have received more than one lakh orders for Deepavali,” said Chennam Suresh of Sri Sai Surya Putharekulu, a shop on Bobbarlanka Road in Atreyapuram that has been selling sweets for the last 75 years.

“We sell putharekulu made from sugar, jaggery, almonds, pistachios, cashews and elaichi and oil. Special sugar-free sweets are also available for diabetics. We have recently started making the traditional flavor in diamond, star and other shapes,” he said. We also make putharekulu, horlicks, boost, carrot, beetroot, ice cream with chocolate jelly and powder, especially for children. Mr. Suresh, who is also the secretary of Atreyapuram Putharekula Vartaka Sangham, added that people from Andhra Pradesh, Telangana, Karnataka, Tamil Nadu, Kerala and other states visit Atreyapuram to buy these sweets.

Mr. Suresh also added that apart from entering global markets through Amazon and Flipkart, they also export putharekulu to Singapore, Canada, USA, UK, Australia and Arab countries.

Confectioner Kolli Venkata Lakshmi emphasized that the mandala witnessed intense activity during the festival season and said that many people visited Pulidindi, Peravaram, Tadipudi, Lolla, Bobbarlanka, Vasanthawada, Velicheru, Merlapalem and other villages to buy putharekulu. The famous paper sweet Razole is also sold in Ambajipeta, Amalapuram, Palakol, Mummidivaram, Pendyala, Kamsalipuram and other places in neighboring districts.

Dr. Women performing putharekulu at a shop in BR Ambedkar Konaseema district. | Photo Credit: GN Rao

Explaining the process, Karanki Jyothi said that making thin rice papers requires clay pot (specially made for making putharekulu), special variety of rice, cooking oil and dried coconut leaves. Then oil is applied and sugar and dried fruits are added.

Mani Kumari, who trains about 25 women in the village to make putharekulu, explained the method: “We start by soaking the rice in water for two hours, then grind it to obtain a milky, glutinous rice flour. Using a thin cloth, we gently cover the casserole with this mixture, and within seconds, delicate, wafer-thin layers form.”

Pricing

The traditional delicacy sells for ₹ 10 to ₹ 80 per piece, depending on its size and ingredients. “With the increase in demand, we now produce putharekulu in various shapes, sizes, colors and flavors to suit customer preferences. Manufacturers are paid between ₹2 and ₹10 per sweet for rolling them,” said the shop owners. According to the shop owners who employ them, each woman makes about 500 desserts a day.

“Rice paper used to roll Putharekulu costs ₹2 and above during festivals and peak season. Each woman earns more than ₹15,000 a month by selling rice paper and enrolls her children in private and corporate schools for education,” said K. Prasad, an auto driver from Vasanthawada.

Dr. A woman making rice paper in a small makeshift hut in Vasantawada village, Atreyapuram mandal in BR Ambedkar Konaseema district. | Photo Credit: GN Rao

“I make more than 300 putharekulu per day and earn around ₹700. My father is an agricultural worker and I prepare all varieties of wafer desserts,” said Pammi Mounika of Pulidindi village.

Ch said that real estate agents, traders, educational institutions, water companies and other businessmen ordered special packages for Deepavali with company or brand names written on the packages. Durga. Ch. Nagababu, the owner of the Veerabhadra Putarekulu stand, said that they received orders for 5,000 gift packages from different places for the festival.

challenges

Despite the high demand, the women who make the mouth-watering delicacy are experiencing financial difficulties. They called on the government to take measures to reduce raw material costs and provide loans to enable them to build houses.

“We buy oil for ₹42 per kg, oil for ₹110 per liter and desiccated coconut leaflets for ₹20 per pack. We request the government to take steps to reduce the investment cost,” said M. Ganga Bhavani.

In addition to financial difficulties, women also experience respiratory and heart problems, visual impairments, back pain, and other problems caused by sitting in front of a hot pot for a long time. “Majority of women in Atreyapuram, Ryali, Pulidindi, Rajavaram, Lolla, Narkedimelli, Ankampalem and other villages suffer from spine and joint pain, blurred vision and other health problems. We request the government to organize regular medical camps with specialist doctors,” said K. Nagamma, a paper candy maker.

happy customers

The quality of sweets is very good in Atreyapuram and neighboring villages in Konaseema, East Godavari and other districts. Customer Gollapalli Raja Shekar from Ravulapalem town said that the workers here follow traditional methods and ensure that the taste is traditional and unique.

“Shop owners and staff greet customers with great respect, offer samples and take orders. Putharekulu prices in Atreyapuram are reasonable compared to other towns and cities,” said Anil, another customer from Kothapeta.