I trekked to endangered mountain gorillas – this is how it felt | World | News
Steph Spyro stands next to an endangered mountain gorilla in Bwindi Impenetrable National Park (Image: Adam Gerrard/Daily Express)
I’ve seen gorillas before, but never like this.
In zoos, I watched them through glass: their large, expressive eyes atrophied from being closed, their powerful bodies pressed against signs imploring visitors not to touch the glass or cameras with flashes.
It is extremely unsettling to meet a creature in a place so different from its home.
There is not a single mountain gorilla in captivity in the entire world. Animals cannot adapt to living in captivity, making their survival entirely dependent on preserving their natural habitat.
So when I found myself lacing up my boots at the edge of Uganda’s Bwindi Impenetrable National Park, preparing to step into one of the last true sanctuaries of endangered mountain gorillas, it felt more like a pilgrimage than a journey.
Long before we set foot in Uganda, the journey had already begun.
Read more: Maisie Williams describes ‘once in a lifetime’ mountain gorilla encounter
There was a £600 permit from the Uganda Wildlife Authority, a fee that helps fund the fragile survival of these animals and the ecosystems they depend on.
Then came a Covid-19 setback in the form of a trip to my local pharmacy for face masks.
The rules are uncompromising. Cough, fever, even the slightest sign of illness can prevent entry.
These gorillas share approximately 98% of our DNA, and this similarity brings a lethal vulnerability to human diseases.
In the days before the walk, I navigated the germ-laden environment of the London Underground and endured the long-haul flight to Central Africa with quiet caution, hoping my body would not betray me.
It never happened, and at dawn on a Thursday the real journey began.
The forest is rapidly gaining its name. Thick vines twist like rope. Branches scratch my clothes. Rangers swing their sickles in rhythmic arcs, sometimes creating a path that appears to be non-existent.
The air is heavy with the smell of damp earth and rotting leaves; The mud clings stubbornly to every crevice of my boots.
We walked deeper, single file, following the faint trails left by the followers and the thousands who had come before, all drawn with the same hope. To see them.
We have been looking for a habitual family, a group that has been slowly learning to tolerate the presence of humans for years.
It can take up to five years for gorillas to accept us into their world, and even then the privilege is fragile.
About an hour later we heard a sound.
A low, echoing call was heard in the morning chorus of the forest.
Rare sighting of baby-carrying silverback in Uganda (Image: Adam Gerrard/Daily Express)
Branches swayed above our heads. The leaves were spiraling downwards through the dim beams of light. When I looked up, I saw a ball of black fur in the canopy moving with great purpose, searching for food for breakfast.
Our guide Amos silently pointed out. Masks are on.
We turned our heads towards the sky and approached him.
And then suddenly they were everywhere. It’s dotted not just on the tree, but everywhere around us.
Young gorillas were playfully rolling and somersaulting down the slope like kids on the playground.
One of them stopped and looked at us curiously before turning back to the offered nutritious leaves.
Another appeared and stopped us at arm’s length. I held my breath. Very close. Then someone else followed closely behind.
Rule of caution, keep a distance of seven metres, as animals roam around us, occasionally disappearing in the face of reality.
The Rushegura family of 17 were mostly unbothered or unaffected by our presence.
On the other hand, we were also stunned.
Something happened that even our experienced guide of nearly 14 years had not witnessed: a huge silverback weighing about 200 kg, which allowed a baby to climb on its back and move deeper into the park.
Reporter Steph Spyro poses with guides during a mountain gorilla trek (Image: Adam Gerrard/Daily Express)
The landscape inside Bwindi’s Impenetrable National Park (Image: Adam Gerrard/Daily Express)
For a few seconds, the great patriarch transformed into something softer, a caretaker.
And just when it felt like the morning could offer no more, the animals put on one last, unforgettable show.
Another younger silverback came into view. He stopped, looked at the endless green field, then stood up on two legs.
His chest rumbled and hit his chest, creating a high-pitched “pop pop” sound that echoed through the trees.
We want to remind you that this is his kingdom and for a moment we are just his guests.
We took this hint and began our walk out of the forest, which seemed to be closing in behind us again; We erased all traces of the encounter.
Unlike our footprints in the mud, these memories will always remain, as well as the enduring desire to protect animals that were recently critically endangered and are now struggling to survive.
